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Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [165]

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Although some treks follow old trade routes, people don’t use many of them today. Because there is usually no-one around to ask for directions, you need to stay reasonably close to the guide or horsemen to ensure you are on the correct path.

DAILY STAGES

The route descriptions are separated into daily stages. This helps to make them readable and gives a quick estimate of the number of days required for each trek. The stages are those defined by DOT as designated camp sites, and the rules state that you must camp at these places. This doesn’t usually create any hardship because in most cases the designated sites are the only spots with water and a space flat enough for making a camp.

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PERSONAL EQUIPMENT CHECK LIST

FOR ALL TREKS

Clothing

down- or fibre-filled jacket

jumper or pile jacket

hiking shorts (for men) or skirt

waterproof jacket, poncho or umbrella

hiking pants

T-shirts or blouses

long-sleeved shirt

underwear

sun hat

swimwear (optional)

Footwear

trekking or running shoes

camp shoes, thongs or sandals

socks (polypropylene)

Other Equipment

backpack

sleeping bag

water bottle

torch (flashlight), batteries & bulbs

Miscellaneous Items

toiletries

toilet paper & cigarette lighter

small knife

sunscreen (SPF 15+ or 30+)

towel

laundry soap

medical & first-aid kit

premoistened towelettes

sewing kit

bandanna

goggles or sunglasses

sunscreen for lips

binoculars

books

duffel bag with a padlock, a few stuff sacks and lots of plastic bags

another duffel bag or suitcase to leave your city clothes in

Photograph Equipment

camera & lenses

lens-cleaning equipment

film (about 20 rolls)

FOR TREKS ABOVE 4000M

Clothing

insulated pants

nylon windbreaker

nylon wind pants

long underwear

woollen hat or balaclava

gloves

gaiters

Footwear

mountain trekking boots

socks (wool)

socks (light cotton) to wear under wool socks

down booties (optional)

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Be sure you have the itinerary, including rest days, worked out in advance. Messages are sent ahead to arrange pack animals. If you don’t meet them on the specified day, they might not wait for you.

As you discuss the trek with your guide and horsemen, be particularly careful to ensure that everyone agrees on the place you will camp the following night. More than once the horsemen have set off for a camping place beyond the destination the trekkers expected.

Some Bhutanese trekking staff have a very relaxed approach to schedules and late morning starts are common. Because many daily stages are quite long, this can result in late arrivals to camp, sometimes after dark. Always carry a torch in your backpack.

TIMES & DISTANCES

The route descriptions list approximate walking times. These are estimates based on personal experience and information produced by DOT. The times and daily stages are ‘tourist times’ and offer a leisurely, comfortable trek with plenty of time for rest, sightseeing or just viewing the mountains. Bhutanese horsemen and over-enthusiastic trekkers can reduce these times to less than those shown here.

The distances shown are those published by DOT. They are estimates and have not been determined by any accurate method of measurement.

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SCHEDULE CHANGES

Despite all the preplanning and the complicated advance arrangements, there are still numerous factors that can upset a trek schedule. Rain and mud can make the trail slippery and the camping miserable. Snow can block trails, horses can fail to appear on schedule or the horse drivers may consider the trail too dangerous for their animals. These things happen more frequently than you might imagine. There is little recourse when the trek cannot proceed and you should always be prepared for possible disappointment.

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REST DAYS

The route descriptions are based on a reasonable number of days needed to complete the trek. You will enjoy the trek more if you add the occasional day for rest, acclimatisation or exploration – even at the cost of an extra US$200.

Maps in this Chapter

The maps included in this chapter

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