Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [167]
Place Names & Terminology
Bhutan is a maze of valleys and rivers that wind around in unexpected turns. It is, therefore, difficult to define in which compass direction a river is flowing at a particular spot. Instead of referring to the north or south bank of rivers, the slightly technical term of ‘river right’ or ‘river left’ has been used. This refers to the right or left side of the river as you face downstream, which is not necessarily the direction you are walking. In the route descriptions, right and left in reference to a river always refers to river right or river left.
The route descriptions list many mountains and places that do not correlate with names in other descriptions of the same route or with names on maps. The variance occurs because most maps were made before the Dzongkha Development Commission produced its guidelines for Romanised Dzongkha. This book uses the Romanised Dzongkha standards for all place names throughout Bhutan.
Many streams and landmarks remain nameless in the trail descriptions. Most trekking routes go through sparsely populated country, where there is less formality about place names. Although some places have official, historically accurate names, many camping places are in meadows or yak pastures. Local herders, or perhaps trekking guides, made up names for some of these places and these now appear on maps. Numerous small streams, valleys and other landmarks do not have any names at all or, if they do have local names, there is usually nobody living nearby to ask.
In some places there is a facility that the Bhutanese call a ‘community hall’. This is a stone building that the staff can use for cooking and shelter and may be available for trekkers to use as a dining room or emergency shelter.
Route Finding
It isn’t easy to get totally lost in the hills, but it has happened to some trekkers, and there are few people around who can help you find the correct trail. If you are on a major trekking route, the trail is usually well defined and there is only one route, although there may be a few confusing short cuts. Watch for the lug-sole footprints of other trekkers or for arrows carved into the trail or marked on rocks by guides with trekking parties. You can also use the hoofprints and dung of your pack animals to confirm that you are on the correct trail. If you find yourself descending a long way when the trail should be going up, if the trail vanishes, or if you suddenly find yourself alone ahead of the rest of your party, stop and wait for the other trekkers and guides to catch up. If you noticed a trail junction some distance back, retrace your steps to try to find where you went wrong.
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RESPONSIBLE TREKKING
Bhutan’s trekking rules require that your staff carry a supply of fuel for cooking. Until 1996, the use of wood was allowed. The horsemen and yak drivers sometimes violate the code and cook their own meals over wood. Although theoretically prohibited, it’s a hard rule to enforce.
Fires
Campfires are prohibited and you should decline the offer if your staff suggest one. Bring enough warm clothing and you won’t need to stand around a fire. It’s a dilemma if the packers build a fire, or if one appears as part of a ‘cultural show’ in a village. Don’t get too upset, however; as long as they burn dead wood the impact is minimal.
GARBAGE FIRES
Burning garbage is offensive to deities, especially within sight of a sacred mountain such as Jhomolhari. Be aware of this cultural issue and try to arrange for rubbish to be packed out with you, burned or disposed of in a way that does not cause offence.
What You Can Do to Help
Try to follow the guidelines in the boxed text. If your trek staff are not digging the