Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [177]
The trail climbs steeply up the side of the main valley and crosses into a large side valley, climbing above a stream. It then makes an impressive climb up the headwall, switchbacking through rocks to a large cairn atop Yeli La at 4930m. Try to avoid walking with the pack animals because the trail is carved into a rock cliff near the pass and is quite narrow. From the pass, on a clear day, you can see Jhomolhari, Gangchhenta and Tserim Kang.
It’s a steep descent into a hanging valley, passing a small lake at 4830m. The trail follows the outflow from the lake, descending into another huge valley and another, larger lake, Khedo Tsho, at 4720m. Watch for blue sheep grazing alongside the lake. The trail then crosses the upper reaches of the Jaradinthang Chhu and descends along the valley, following the river southwards for a very long distance, crossing several side streams. After crossing back to the east bank on a log bridge at 4340m, the trail reaches a chorten at 4150m where it turns eastwards into the upper Wang Chhu valley. Descending and crossing to the south bank (river right) of the Wang Chhu on a log bridge, the trail traverses a narrow, sandy slope to a camping place at Shodu (4080m), just at the tree line.
Day 7: Shodu to Barshong
16km / 5-6 hours / 250m ascent, 670m descent
Upon leaving Shodu the trail crosses to river left and passes an abandoned army camp and a small alternative camp site. The trail traverses under steep yellow cliffs with a few meditation caves carved into them. It is believed that the Zhabdrung spent some time in these caves. Descending on a steep stone staircase, the trail reaches the river, crossing it on a log bridge at 3870m. For the next three hours the trail crosses the river five more times, slopping through muddy cypress forests on the south slope and hugging the steep canyon walls and crossing large side streams on the north slope, eventually ending up on the north bank (river left) at 3580m.
The route climbs gradually for one hour to Barshong, where there is a dilapidated community hall and the ruins of a small dzong. The designated camp is below the ruins at 3710m, but it is in a swampy meadow and most groups elect to continue to a better camp by the river, about 1½ hours beyond (see below).
Day 8: Barshong to Dolam Kencho
15km / 4-6 hours / 290m ascent, 640m descent
The trail descends gently through a dense forest of rhododendron, birch and conifers, then drops steeply on a rocky trail to meet the Wang Chhu. Thirty minutes of walking through a larch forest leads to a clearing known as Ta Gume Thang (Waiting for Horses) at 3370m. Most groups camp here or 15 minutes further on at Dom Shisa (Where the Bear Died) instead of Barshong.
Stay on river left, climbing over ridges and descending to side streams. The route then makes a steep climb to 3340m. After traversing for about 30 minutes in rhododendron forests, a trail leads off to the right. This descends to Dolam Kencho, a pleasant camp in a large meadow at 3320m. If your group has elected to shorten the trek and continue on to Dodina, stay on the left-hand trail, bypassing Dolam Kencho, and climb to a crest at 3430m.
Day 9: Dolam Kencho to Dodina
8km / 3-4 hours / 500m ascent, 930m descent
From the camp the trail climbs back to the trail, reaching a crest with a cairn at 3430m. The trail descends to a stream at 3060m, then climbs again to a pass at 3120m. Another short descent and climb through bamboo forest leads to a rocky stream bed, which the trail follows down to the remains of a logging road along the Wang Chhu at 2720m. It is then a 15-minute walk south along a rocky route to the roadhead at Dodina (2640m), opposite the bridge that leads to Cheri Goemba.
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