Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [188]
Snow covers the route during winter so the trek is considered open from March to April and from September to early November. Its starting point, Duer village, is one hour (5km) of rough driving from Toktu Zampa. This trek includes a visit to a tsachhu.
Day 1: Duer to Gorsum
18km / 6-7 hours / 380m ascent
The route follows the valley of the Yoleng Chhu, which is famous for trout, up to Gorsum at 3120m.
Day 2: Gorsum to Lungsum
12km / 5 hours / 40m ascent
The route travels through a forest of cypress, juniper, spruce, hemlock and maple. The trail is muddy and climbs gradually to the camp at Lungsum (3160m).
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THE TREK AT A GLANCE
Duration 8 days
Max Elevation 4700m
Standard Medium–hard
Season March to April, September to November
Start/Finish Duer
Access Town Jakar
Summary This trek is the old expedition route to Gangkhar Puensum.
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Day 3: Lungsum to Tsoc
henchen
15km / 6-7 hours / 620m ascent
Trek through more forest to a camp at Tsochenchen, above the tree line at 3780m.
Day 4: Tsochenchen to Duer Tsachhu
18km / 8-9 hours / 1340m ascent, 1530m descent
The day starts with a long climb to a small lake and on to Juli La (4700m), a rocky saddle with a few prayer flags and a good view of the surrounding mountains. After crossing the pass the trail descends to a lake at 4220m, climbs again to Gokthong La (4640m), then switchbacks steeply down through jungle to a camp near the Duer hot springs at 3590m. It may be possible to see musk deer, Himalayan bears and blue sheep.
Day 5: A Day at Duer Tsachhu
Take a rest day to relax in the tsachhu. There are several wooden tubs set into the ground inside a rough wooden shelter.
Day 6: Duer Tsachhu to Tsochenchen
18km / 6 hours / 1530m ascent, 1340m descent
Return via the same route to Tsochenchen.
Day 7: Tsochenchen to Gorsum
27km / 9 hours / 660m descent
Follow the route back down the valley.
Day 8: Gorsum to Duer
18km / 6 hours / 380m descent
Return to the road.
Return to beginning of chapter
RODANG LA TREK
Although it was an important trade route before the National Hwy was built, few people travel this path any more. Most trekkers combine this route with the Bumthang cultural trek, starting at Thangbi Goemba. Alternatively, you can start the trek by driving up the Tang valley to Kizum, saving two days of walking.
Rodang La is subject to closure because of snow; this trek is best planned in October and early November as well as late spring.
The trek crosses the road near Lhuentse, which breaks up the continuity of the trekking experience, but offers a chance to visit the remote dzong.
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THE TREK AT A GLANCE
Duration 10 days
Max Elevation 4160m
Standard Medium–hard
Season October to November
Start Thangbi Goemba
Finish Trashi Yangtse
Access Town Jakar
Summary This trek across eastern Bhutan is tough and involves a tremendously long, steep descent. The logistics are complicated and horses are often difficult to obtain for the final four days of the trek.
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Days 1-2: Toktu Zampa to Ogyen Chholing
Follow Days 1 to 2 of the Bumthang cultural trek to Ogyen Chholing, at an elevation of 2760m (Click here).
Day 3: Ogyen Chholing to Phokpey
17km / 5-6 hours / 920m ascent
The long climb to Rodang La takes two days. Above Ogyen Chholing the trail is rutted with the hoof prints of cattle. If it’s wet, this is a very muddy, miserable, slippery climb. The trail levels out at about 2900m and meets a stream. At about 3000m the cow trails end and it becomes a small footpath through muddy fields and dwarf bamboo.
At 3400m the trail crosses a meadow with more dwarf bamboo. High on the opposite hill you can see the recently built Phokpey Goemba. Climb through the meadow and traverse through forest to another steep, high meadow, finally turning a corner into a side valley. The opposite side is all big firs.
The trail leads up a draw towards the head of the valley and Phokpey, a camp in a meadow at 3680m. This is a summer pasture and there is the frame for a house that herders cover with a plastic sheet to use