Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [192]
Max Elevation 5320m
Standard Hard
Season September to October
Start Drukgyel Dzong
Finish Sephu
Access Town Paro
Summary The Snowman trek travels to the remote Lunana district and is said to be one of the most difficult treks in the world. Fewer than half the people who attempt this trek actually finish it, either because of problems with altitude or heavy snowfall on the high passes.
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Day 11: Rest & Acclimatisation Day in Laya
If you have trekked from Drukgyel Dzong you should spend a day recuperating from the trek to Laya and preparing for the rest of this rigorous trek. If you’ve trekked from Tashithang, you should also walk up to Laya to acclimatise. The army post below Laya has a radio; you will need to send a runner here with a message in an emergency.
Day 12: Laya to Rodophu
19km / 6-8 hours / 1030m ascent, 70m descent
The trek leads gradually downhill to the Lunana trail junction, then climbs steeply for 30 to 40 minutes to a hilltop with good views over the Mo Chhu and the Rhodo Chhu. Much of the forest cover here was burned. The rough trail continues to climb gradually up the Rhodo Chhu valley, first through mixed conifers, then through rhododendron shrubs above the tree line. At the top of a large rock slide there is a view of the broad glacial valley and a massive glacier on Tsenda Kang (7100m), towering overhead. The Roduphu camp is just beyond a wooden bridge across the Rhodo Chhu at 4160m.
If you have time in the afternoon, or are taking an acclimatisation day here, you have a choice of several short hikes. A small trail leads up the valley for about 2km to a knoll with excellent views of the valley and surrounding mountains. You could continue further to the base of the glacier. Another option is to follow a small trail that starts about 500m upstream from the camp and switchbacks up the hill to the north, ending in a small yak pasture with a hut at 4500m.
Day 13: Rodophu to Narethang
17km / 5-6 hours / 720m ascent
The path crosses the wooden bridge and follows the river for about 20 minutes through rhododendron shrubs before turning right up the hill. Climb steadily to a high open valley at 4600m then more gradually through meadows to Tsomo La (4900m), which offers good views towards the Tibetan border and Jhomolhari. The route then crosses a generally flat, barren plateau at about 5000m with yak trails crisscrossing everywhere. Hopefully you’ll have a knowledgeable guide and won’t get lost. The camp is at Narethang (4900m), below the 6395m peak of Gangla Karchung.
Day 14: Narethang to Tarina
18km / 5-6 hours / 270m ascent, 1200m descent
From camp it takes about one hour to climb to 5120m Gangla Karchung La. Mountain views from the pass are excellent with distant Kang Bum (6526m) to the west and the rugged peaks of Tsenda Kang, Teri Gang (7300m) and Jejekangphu Gang (7100m) on the northern horizon.
The path descends along a large moraine to the edge of a near-vertical wall. Views from the edge of the wall are breathtaking – among the best along the entire trek. A massive glacier descends from Teri Kang to a deep turquoise lake at its foot, 1km below you. The glacial lake to the left burst through its dam in the early 60s, causing widespread damage downstream, and partially destroying Punakha Dzong.
Now the path becomes very steep (almost vertical in places) as it descends into the valley. In the lower half of the descent it passes through thick rhododendron shrubs and trees. When wet, this stretch can be rather nasty, with lots of roots and slippery mud.
At the bottom of the large, U-shaped valley the trail turns right, following the Tang Chhu downstream. There are several good camp sites along the river, both before and after the trail crosses the river at Tarina.
Day 15: Tarina to Woche
17km / 6-7 hours / 275m ascent, 330m descent
The walk leads through conifer forest down the Tang Chhu on river left, passing some impressive waterfalls cascading down both sides of the valley. The trail climbs gently out of the valley past several huge landslides and eventually