Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [198]
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RIVERS FOR RAFTING & KAYAKING
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From small alpine runs like the Paro Chhu to the big-water Puna Tsang Chhu, the white water of Bhutan is as diverse as its topography. Since 1997 small groups of paddlers have been exploring 14 rivers and over 22 different runs that vary from class II (beginner with moderate rapids) to class V (expert only).
There are two superb day trips on the Pho Chhu and the Mo Chhu. The trip on the Pho Chhu combines a hike up the side of the river through forest and farmland to the put-in at Samdinka. The raft trip has a couple of class III rapids and ends in a bang with the ‘Wrathful Buddha’ rapid next to the Punakha Dzong.
The second trip, a very easy scenic float on the Mo Chhu, is suitable for all abilities and is a good introduction for the novice. The run starts about 6km above the Punakha Dzong at the Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten. As the river meanders through the wide valley you float past one of the queen’s winter residences, the king’s weekend retreat and some beautiful farmland before taking out just below the dzong.
The fees for river rafting are the same as cultural tours and trekking, though there are extra charges for hiring equipment. Presently only one overseas operator, Needmore Adventures (Click here), and one Bhutanese operator, Lotus Adventures (Click here), has trained river guides and equipment for river running in Bhutan.
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BUSINESS HOURS
Government offices open at 9am and close at 5pm in the summer and 4pm in the winter, Monday to Friday. Banks are open from 9am to 3pm Monday to Friday and 9am till noon Saturday. Shops are usually open from 8am to 8pm or 9pm. In Phuentsholing shops are open on Saturday and Sunday, but closed Tuesday. Some restaurants in Thimphu stay open as late as 10pm, but many close earlier. Nightclubs and discos stay open till the early morning on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday and most bars are closed on Tuesday – the national ‘dry’ day. Reviews in this book mention business hours only if different from these standards.
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CHILDREN
As there are discounts for children travelling in Bhutan, it needn’t break the bank if you bring kids along. Up to the age of five, children are free, and kids from six to 12 accompanied by parents or guardians receive a 50% discount on the daily rate. Kids may become bored with long, monotonous drives, limited availability to TV and little other ‘entertainment’ available. On the other hand, they will be immediately accepted by local kids and their families, and they could make many new friends. Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children has lots of useful advice and suggestions.
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CLIMATE CHARTS
Bhutan is at the same latitude as Miami and Cairo. The climate varies widely depending on the elevation. In the southern border areas it is tropical; at the other extreme, in the high Himalayan regions, there is perpetual snow. Temperatures in the far south range from 15°C in winter (December to February) to 30°C in summer (June to August). In Paro the range is from -5°C in January to 30°C in July, with 800mm of rain. In the high mountain regions the average temperature is 0°C in winter and may reach 10°C in summer, with an average of 350mm of rain. For more on Bhutan’s climate Click here.
Rain occurs primarily during the southwest monsoon season from June to September. Bhutan bears the brunt of the monsoon, receiving more rainfall than other Himalayan regions – up to 5.5m a year. During the monsoon, heavy rain falls almost every night; in the day there may be long periods without rain. Low clouds hang on the hills, obscuring views and, if they are too low, forcing the cancellation of flights at Paro airport.
Precipitation varies significantly with the elevation. The average rainfall varies from region to region.
Himalayan regions Less than 500mm per year.
Inner central valleys