Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [204]
There are colour-printing facilities in Thimphu and Phuentsholing. Kuenphen Colour Lab ( 02-324058; Norzin Lam) in Thimphu has an automatic machine. No lab in Bhutan has facilities to process colour slides.
Many of the dzongs and mountain peaks are best photographed at a distance with a telephoto lens. Bear in mind that there will be little or no opportunity for photography inside buildings, therefore you don’t need to organise a flash attachment and tripod for that purpose. A polarising filter will help make your mountain pictures more dramatic by increasing the contrast between the sky and the white peaks and clouds. Carry spare batteries, as these are hard to find in rural Bhutan.
In Thimphu the Sony Shop ( 02-324414; Norzin Lam) below the NT Hotel and Jimmy Bros Stationery (Map; 02-323388; Clocktower Sq) sell blank video cartridges. Grab a copy of Lonely Planet’s Travel Photography for tips and advice.
Restrictions
Bhutan is generally liberal about photography by tourists. There are a few places with signs prohibiting photography such as the telecom tower above Thimphu and it would also be prudent to refrain from taking pictures of military installations.
There are no restrictions on photographing the outside of dzongs and goembas, but photography is strictly prohibited inside goembas and lhakhangs. There are several reasons for this. One is that tourists in the past have completely disrupted holy places with their picture taking. Another is the fear that photos of treasured statues will become a catalogue of items for art thieves to steal. And thirdly, some early tourists made photographs of religious statues into postcards that were then sold, which is unacceptable to the Bhutanese religious community.
During festivals you may enter the dzong courtyard where the dances take place. This provides an excellent opportunity to photograph the dzongs, people and local colour.
Remember, however, that this is a religious observance and that you should behave accordingly. Use a telephoto lens without a flash. Don’t intrude on the dance ground or on the space occupied by local people seated at the edge of the dance area. If you do end up in the front row, remain seated.
There is an extensive set of rules and restrictions, including payment of royalties, for commercial movie making in Bhutan. DOT publishes a booklet that details all these rules.
Photographing People
Always ask permission first. Bhutanese people are naturally shy but will usually allow you to take a photograph, especially if you ask them first. Many people, especially children, will pose for you, and a smile or joke will help to make the pose a little less formal. Remember that almost everyone understands English, even if they are too embarrassed to try to speak it.
After you take a picture, many people will write down their address so that you may send them a copy. Don’t take pictures of people unless you are prepared to honour your promise to send a copy (many people leave their best intentions at Paro airport on their way home). Don’t photograph a member of the royal family, even if you happen to be at a festival or gathering where they are present.
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POST
Postal Rates
Airmail postage rates for the first 20g of ordinary (nonpackage) mail are Nu 20 for most countries (Nu 4 for India, Nepal and Bangladesh).
Sending Mail
You can send mail from hotels and post offices. The mail service from Bhutan is reliable, and no special procedures are necessary. It would be better, however, to avoid sending important letters, money or film through the mail.
If you mail cards or letters from the Thimphu post office, you can buy exotic postage stamps from the philatelic bureau.
Bhutan Post offers both outgoing and incoming Expedited Mail Service (EMS), which is a reliable and fast international mail delivery facility that is cheaper than courier services. It also has a Local