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Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [218]

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country, but for trips to central and eastern Bhutan during winter (December to February) or the monsoon (June to September) a 4WD vehicle is an advantage, and often a necessity.

If you are travelling on a tourist visa, the cost of all transport is included in the price of your trip and you’ll have a vehicle available for both short- and long-distance travel. You’ll only have to rely on public transport if you are an Indian national or if you are working with a project that does not provide you with a vehicle.


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BICYCLE

Some travellers have ridden mountain bikes in Bhutan, and DOT (Department of Tourism) are promoting this kind of travel. Good routes include the upper parts of the Paro and Thimphu valleys. For a wild ride, get dropped off at the top of the Cheli La, above Paro, and ride 35km nonstop downhill. For more information, including dedicated mountain biking trails, Click here and Click here.


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BUS

Public buses are crowded and rattly, and Bhutan’s winding roads make them doubly uncomfortable. The government’s Bhutan Post Express ( 02-322381), Dawa Transport ( 02-324250) and plenty of other companies operate minibuses and so many passengers suffer from motion sickness that these have earned the nickname ‘vomit comets’. Some private operators, including Leksol Bus Service ( 02-325232) and Karma Transport ( 02-332412), use more comfortable Toyota Coasters at about 50% more than the minibus fare. In eastern Bhutan you might arrive at the bus stop to discover that your bus is actually a truck with seats in the back!

There are three or four buses a day between Thimphu and the major centres of Phuentsholing, Paro and Punakha. Fares and schedules are all monitored by the Road Safety and Transport Authority.

Costs

Public buses are cheap. A minibus fare between Thimphu and Paro is Nu 40, Thimphu and Phuentsholing Nu 120, and Thimphu and Jakar Nu 202.


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CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Since all transport is provided by tour operators, you normally do not have to concern yourself with driving. If for some reason you are arranging your own transport, you are still far better off using the services of a hired car and driver or a taxi. Driving in Bhutan is a harrowing experience. Roads are narrow and trucks roar around hairpin bends, appearing suddenly and forcing oncoming vehicles to the side. Because most roads are only about 3.5m wide, passing any oncoming vehicle involves one, or both, moving onto the verge.

If you don’t already have one at your disposal, the best way to hire a car is through a tour company (Click here). It’s unlikely that you’ll find a motorcycle for rent; however, you can join an organised motorcycle tour; Click here.

Bring Your Own Vehicle

If you drive a vehicle into Bhutan, you can get a 14-day permit at the Phuentsholing border. You will need the help of a tour operator to handle the paperwork. If you are driving a vehicle that is registered overseas, you will need a carnet in order to get through India.

Indian visitors may travel throughout most of Bhutan in their own vehicle, but need a permit from the Road Safety and Transport Authority at the border. Traffic regulations are the same as in India and are strictly enforced.

Driving Licence

If you insist on driving in Bhutan, you should obtain a driving licence issued by the Road Safety and Transport Authority. Bhutanese licences are also valid throughout India.

An International Driving Permit is not valid in Bhutan. An Indian driving licence is valid in Bhutan, and it’s possible for Indian nationals to drive in Bhutan; but unless you are an accomplished rally driver or are from a hill station such as Darjeeling and have experience in motoring in the mountains, it’s safer with a professional driver.

Road Rules

Traffic keeps to the left and is much more orderly than in most other south Asian countries. Speeds are low in towns and on rural roads; you will be lucky to average more than 30km/h on the roads in the hills.

As is the case throughout Asia, it is important

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