Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [32]
Formal occasions, including a visit to the dzong, require a scarf called a kabney that identifies a person’s rank. The kabney has to be put on correctly so it hangs in exactly the right way. In dzongs, and on formal occasions, a dasho or someone in authority carries a long sword called a patang.
* * *
DOS & DON’TS
Despite the deep religious belief and the pervasiveness of traditional culture, Bhutanese are quite open and liberal. They have a reputation for being the least complicated Asian people to communicate with. There are many complex customs and traditions in Bhutan, but you are not expected to follow all of these.
If you are courteous and respectful of religious beliefs, you are unlikely to cause offence. Using the word la at the end of a sentence in either Dzongkha or English is a sign of respect, eg kuzo zangpo la (hello).
You should also follow the normal Asian standards of courtesy and behaviour in Bhutan. These include respect for the monarchy, modest dress and no public displays of affection. Use the right hand or, better yet, both hands to give or receive an object. Don’t use your finger to point, especially at deities or religious objects; use an open hand with the palm up. When waving someone towards you, keep your palm pointing down. Never touch the crown of the head, for example of a young child; this is considered a special part of the body.
Most lakes are the abode of gods or spirits. Don’t swim, wash clothes or throw stones into them.
Visiting Temples
Himalayan Buddhism has a generally relaxed approach to religious sites, but you should observe a few important rules if you are invited to enter a lhakhang or goemba. It is customary to remove one’s shoes and hat upon entering the important rooms of a temple. You will most likely be escorted by a caretaker monk, and you can follow his example in removing your shoes at the appropriate doorway. Leave cameras, umbrellas and hats outside. Always move in a clockwise direction and do not speak loudly. If there is a ceremony being performed inside, always check before entering that it’s OK.
Followers of Himalayan Buddhism will prostrate themselves three times before the primary altar and occasionally before secondary shrines to important saints. You may approach the central altar, and in Bhutanese goembas you will often find a cup containing three dice. Bhutanese roll these dice and the monk interprets the auspiciousness of the result. It is customary to leave a small offering of money (Nu 10) on the altar. When you make this offering, the monk accompanying you will pour a small amount of holy water, from a sacred vessel called a bumpa, into your hand. You should make the gesture of drinking a sip of this water and then spread the rest on your head. While male visitors may be permitted (please ask before entering) to enter the goenkhang (shrine dedicated to protector deities), this is off-limits to all women. Do not walk behind an altar set before the goenkhang.
Feet & Face
As in all Asian countries, you should never point your feet at someone. If you are sitting on the floor, cross your legs or kneel so that your feet are pointed behind you. If you happen to sleep in a room where there is an altar or statue, ensure your feet do not point towards it.
The Asian concept of keeping face also applies in Bhutan. Try to suggest instead of insist. When things go wrong, as they are certain to do at some stage, be patient while your guide figures out a solution. Remember, Asian people dislike saying