Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [7]
SEVEN DAYS
For a more comprehensive look at Bhutan, invest in a week and definitely add an overnight trip over the mountains to Punakha and nearby Wangdue Phodrang, overnighting at either of these towns. This way you’ll have time to make the 1½-hour return hike to the nearby Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, as well as visit Chimi Lhakhang and the dzong at Wangdue Phodrang.
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A week gives you more time to get a feel for Bhutanese culture and enables you to get off the beaten track in the Haa or Phobjikha valleys, while still seeing the major dzongs and monasteries of western Bhutan. It’s worth spending the extra money for another day or two – after all, when are you next going to be in Bhutan?
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To get off the beaten track in a short period of time add an overnight trip to the Haa valley, en route between Paro and Thimphu. The road goes over the highest motorable pass in Bhutan, the Cheli La, and in October it’s worth including a couple of hours hiking to get fine views from just above the pass. Arrive in Haa at lunchtime, and spend an afternoon and maybe the next morning exploring the Juneydrak Hermitage and Chundu Lhakhang, before continuing on to Thimphu.
Figure on two days in Paro, including visits to Taktshang, Kyichu Lhakhang and Drukyel Dzong in the Paro valley, and a full day (or two) in Thimphu. See the previous itinerary for more on what to see in Paro and Thimphu.
If you don’t visit Haa, you might be able to add on a day trip to the Phobjikha valley, especially worthwhile in winter (October to March) when the valley’s black-necked cranes are roosting.
At some point during your trip ask your guide to arrange that quintessential experience, a Bhutanese hot-stone bath, available in most tourist hotels (for a charge). If you’re lucky you may also be able to catch a weekend archery tournament, most likely in Thimphu.
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TEN DAYS
A 10-day itinerary should allow you two or three days in Bumthang, before you have to turn back to Paro. Follow the previous itineraries for the first four or five days.
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A longer program of 10 days will allow you two full days in Bumthang with overnight stops in Paro, Thimphu and Wangdue Phodrang and short stops in Punakha and Trongsa as you drive through. Fourteen days will let you see the same places in more detail and at a much more relaxed pace. You could then even include the two-day Bumthang Cultural trek.
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A night in the Phobjikha valley will give you a chance to see Gangte Goemba and also view the rare and endangered black-necked cranes. If you like explore places on foot then budget an extra half-day’s hiking at Phobjikha
From Phobjikha it’s a day’s drive over the Pele La to the superb dzong at Trongsa and on to Jakar in Bumthang. Leave early, as there’s lots to see en route, including the Nepali-style Chendebji Chorten.
If you have two days in Bumthang spend one day doing a loop in the Chokhor valley, taking in the Jampey Lhakhang, Kurjey Lhakhang and Tamshing Goemba. Day two here should be spent exploring the Tang valley, visiting the Burning Lake at Membartsho and Ogyen Chholing Museum. If you have time, overnight in the Ogyen Chholing Guest House and hike back via Gamling.
The Bumthang valley is another good place for some hiking (Click here) so budget half a day to stretch your legs after a week’s driving. From Jakar it’s a two-day drive back to Paro, so sleep at Wangdue Phodrang and visit its impressive dzong.
If you intend to visit India in conjunction with Bhutan, instead of flying consider driving from Thimphu or Paro to Phuentsholing, which will add a day to the itinerary. From here you are only a few hours from Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Sikkim, as well as the airport at Bagdogra, which has frequent flights to Delhi and Kolkata.
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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
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THE EAST
It takes at least two weeks to make a trip out to the little-visited far east. There’s certainly a loooot of driving involved but then getting there is half