Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [75]
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HIGHLIGHTS
Savour the serenity of the powerful yet peaceful architecture of Trashi Chhoe Dzong
Immerse yourself in the pungent, colourful, bustling weekend market – a gastronomic wonderland and gaudy artefact bazaar
Stretch your legs and climb through whispering pines to the peaceful solitude of either Tango Goemba or Cheri Goemba
Bend your elbow at one of Thimphu’s friendly bars, such as Om Bar, and meet the locals over momos and beer
Marvel at the skill and artistry of Bhutanese youth at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum
Spot an incongruous takin at the Motithang Takin Preserve
ELEVATION: 2320M
POPULATION: 98,676
TELEPHONE CODE: 02
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ORIENTATION
The road from the south (and Paro) is met by the new expressway 11km from the Thimphu. As it races along the valley floor it passes below Simtokha Dzong, before entering Thimphu CBD, marked by an elaborately decorated petrol station. The city sprawls north and west in the lightly wooded valley of the Wang Chhu.
The road leading north from the petrol station is Norzin Lam, Thimphu’s main drag, which takes you through the town centre past several major hotels and the pretty Clocktower Sq, the city’s heart. Not far north of the square is the famous traffic circle with the arm-waving police. From the traffic circle, Norzim Lam continues uphill past the cinema, the Bank of Bhutan and the government handicraft emporium. At the northern end of Norzin Lam, Desi Lam leads to the National Library, Folk Heritage Museum, the golf course and Trashi Chhoe Dzong. A turn to the west back at the traffic circle puts you on Chorten Lam, which intersects with Doendrup Lam near the Swiss Bakery, before heading south towards the Memorial Chorten. The road leading east from the traffic circle, Wogzin Lam, takes you either to Clocktower Sq or you can continue east on Gatoen Lam past Benez Restaurant to Chang Lam, a north–south thoroughfare that runs beside and above the Changlimithang archery ground and sports stadium.
Doebum Lam makes a loop from the Memorial Chorten above and to the west of the CBD to the northern end of Norzin Lam, passing the Drichu Drakey Bakery and the sports complex on the way. Numerous smaller streets weave their way uphill to government offices and the posh suburb of Motithang west of the centre.
The east and west banks of the Wang Chhu are connected by Lungten Zampa, the bridge at the south end of town. Chhogyel Lam runs north beneath the bridge, past the archery ground, sports stadium, Zangto Pelri Lhakang and the weekend market. On the eastern bank, Dechen Lam leads to several hotels and eventually to the monasteries at the head of the valley. For information on getting around the city, Click here.
Maps
City maps (Nu 100) are available in bookshops and handicraft shops. The Department of Survey & Land Records publishes the Thimphu City Map, which shows all the ministries, other government offices and religious buildings. The similar, glossy Thimphu/Paro City Map has an inset showing many of the hotels and shops, plus a small map of Paro on the reverse side.
Although usually well signposted, very few locals, including taxi drivers, actually know and use street names; landmarks and building names will serve you better when asking for or giving directions. To add to the confusion, several of the street names on signposts differ from those on city maps. For more on maps, Click here.
You can download maps of hiking trails around Thimphu from www.bhutan-trails.org/index.html. For more information on these trails Click here).
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INFORMATION
Bookshops
Thimphu’s bookshops carry Bhutanese and Indian newspapers, periodicals and a selection of books on Bhutan, Tibet and Buddhism. Prices are quite reasonable, especially for Indian editions, which are cheaper than overseas editions.
Book World (Map; 323386; bookworld@druknet.bt; Clocktower Sq) At the southwestern end of the square next to Jimmy Bros Stationery, this tiny shop has a good selection