Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [85]
APARTMENTS
A couple of the hotels above have apartments for long-term guests. Alternatively there are specialist providers of self-contained accommodation.
Shambala Executive Apartments (Map; 323363; fax 323600; Thori Lam; apt per month Nu 32,500) These spacious two-bedroom, two-bathroom, fully furnished, fully serviced apartments boast polished floorboards, wood panelling and other nice touches. Nightly rates for short-term guests are available on request.
Rabten Apartments (Map; 323587; rabten@druknet.bt; Thori Lam; apt per month Nu 18,000) Long-term guests can stay in these fully furnished (including TV) apartments and the rent includes cleaning and laundry. The restaurant specialises in Bhutanese banquets, where you must call ahead for a reservation.
Top End
Taj Tashi Hotel (Map; 322966; fax 322677; Norzim Lam; holidays@tajhotels.com; s/d/ste US$300/300/500; ) At the time of research, the finishing touches were being applied to this centrally located, 66-room hotel that towers over Thimphu but cleverly incorporates traditional architecture. There are several categories of luxury accommodation, with all rooms beautifully appointed with traditional art and contemporary comfort. Guests can choose to dine in three restaurants, take tea in the tea lounge or sample the bar. One’s ingestion sins can be expunged in the gym, spa or heated indoor pool.
Amankora (Map; 8272333; www.amanresorts.com; Thori Lam; s/d US$925/1000; ) On the ‘less is more’ theme comes this five-star resort on the outskirts of town, far from the dogs and traffic of Norzin Lam. The only sounds to penetrate the vertical breaches in the stone walls are the whispers of the surrounding pine grove. Amankora looks like a mini dzong, its stone-paved passageways inspiring hushed tones in the reverential guests. Inside the open-plan rooms, plenty of wood and tan-coloured textiles mellow the monastery asceticism. The traditional bukhari wood heater is a nice touch; so is the altar-like bath tub. If you can leave the bath, you can spa yourself silly, have a massage or take in one of the cultural programs. Airport transfers, meals in the immaculate restaurant (Bhutanese and Continental menu), and beverages are included in the tariff.
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EATING
Thimphu’s dining scene is dominated by the hotel restaurants, but there’s a handful of cosy cafés and restaurant-bars that hint of epicurean evolution in progress.
Hotel restaurants tend to be a predictable multicuisine compilation of Indian, Bhutanese, Chinese and Continental. Not surprisingly one kitchen rarely excels in all cuisines and we have used locals’, expats’ and our own gluttonous adventures to source what’s good and where. Bhutanese cuisine is widely available, but beware the hot chillies that are an essential, omnipresent ingredient. Other ingredients are seasonal, including meat, so don’t be surprised to find some menu items unavailable.
Restaurants
When tour groups are in residence most hotels have a buffet at Nu 300 to 500, but it’s usually possible to order from the à la carte menu too.
Seasons Restaurant (Map; 327413; Doendrup Lam; mains Nu 150-200 lunch & dinner) This deservedly popular restaurant specialises in pizzas – excellent veg and non-veg varieties – and pasta. There’s also a balcony overlooking the bustling Hong Kong Market where you can enjoy a Red Panda wheat beer. And from December to March ask about the yummy yak roast.
Benez Restaurant (Map; 325180; Gatoen Lam; mains Nu 40-120; lunch & dinner, closed Tue) Benez is a lively and inviting restaurant in the centre of town, with a cosy bar in the back that is popular with locals and expats, especially on Fridays. In addition to the multicuisine mains there are excellent bar snacks of momos, samosas, fried cheese balls, etc.
Druk Hotel (Map; 322966; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu 75-150; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This spacious restaurant caters to tour groups as well as Thimphu’s business