Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [90]
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AROUND THIMPHU
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NORTH OF THIMPHU
As you travel up the east side of the Wang Chhu, north of Lungten Zampa and past the Riverview Hotel, you’ll eventually pass the SAARC building (National Assembly), which overlooks the dzong. On the opposite side of the river you may catch a glimpse of Samtenling Palace, the cottage that is the king’s residence. A short distance north is the suburb of Taba where the Forestry Institute has its offices and you can stay at the atmospheric Taba Resort (Map; 323532; htlwchuk@druknet.bt; off Dechen Lam; s/d from Nu 1530/1950). The resort is associated with the Wangchuk Hotel in town and boasts a restful, pine-forest location, mineral spring, hot-stone baths and a private goemba built on the ruins of a former palace. There are great valley views from the balconied rooms.
The large Dechenchoeling Palace is some distance north of the dzong. It was built in 1952 and is the official residence of the queen mother. North of the palace is the Royal Body Guard (RBG) facility.
Pangri Zampa
North of Dechenchoeling and east of Dechenphu Lhakhang is Pangri Zampa, two imposing white buildings in a grove of giant cypress trees. Founded in the early 16th century, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal lived here after he arrived in 1616 because this temple appeared in the vision that directed him from Tibet to Bhutan. A well-respected astrologer is in residence and frescoes here are said to have been painted by the Zhabdrung.
Dechenphu Lhakhang
Dechenphu Lhakhang is a 2km drive on a rocky road up a side valley from a turn-off near Dechenchoeling, then a short climb up a stone staircase to an elevation of about 2660m. The imposing, tall red goenkhang is dedicated to the powerful deity Gyenyen and is said to be able to supply armour and weapons for an endless number of soldiers. Unesco financed a project to restore many of the paintings in the adjoining goemba.
Tango Goemba & Cheri Goemba
Continuing up the valley the road crosses to the east side of the Wang Chhu at Begana, near a training facility operated by the electricity department and a large gold-painted petroglyph of Chenrisig on a rock beside the road. There are no restaurants or shops nearby. If you plan a full-day excursion to either Tango Goemba or Cheri Goemba, bring a water bottle and a packed lunch.
A few kilometres beyond Begana, 12km from Thimphu, a road leads east and climbs a short distance to a parking lot. The trail to Tango Goemba is a climb of 280m and takes about half an hour if you follow the steeper shortcut, or about an hour if you take the longer, more gradual trail. Lama Gyalwa Lhanampa founded the goemba in the 12th century. The present building was built in the 15th century by the ‘divine madman’, Lama Drukpa Kunley (Click here). In 1616 Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal visited Tango Goemba and meditated in a cave nearby. The head lama, a descendent of Lama Drukpa Kunley, presented the goemba to the Zhabdrung, who carved a sandalwood statue of Chenresig, which he installed in the monastery.
The picturesque three-storey tower and several surrounding buildings were built in the 18th century by the eighth desi (secular ruler), Druk Rabgye. The Zhabdrung Jigme Chhogyel added the golden roof in the 19th century. Tango is the residence of an important young trulku (reincarnate lama) who is recognised as the seventh reincarnation of the highly respected fourth desi, Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye, whose previous incarnation passed away in 1830.
A short distance beyond the turn-off to Tango Goemba the road ends at Dodina (elevation 2600m). A walk of about one hour leads to Cheri Goemba (Cheri Dorji Dhen). The trail starts by crossing a lovely covered bridge that spans the Wang Chhu, and then climbs