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Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 tablespoon butter

⅓ cup loosely packed marjoram leaves or 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley

1 recipe Pasta Dough, page 41, rolled out and cut for tagliolini, or 1 pound imported tagliolini

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until golden brown on all sides.

Discard garlic and add sole. Cook, stirring, until sole is light golden and fish juices have thickened, about 2 minutes. Increase heat to high and add wine. Stir until wine is almost all reduced. Add lemon zest, and season with salt and just a bit of pepper. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid in skillet has a medium-thick consistency, 3 to 4 minutes. Add butter, marjoram or parsley, stir once or twice and turn heat off.

Meanwhile bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and pasta. Cook, uncovered, over high heat, until pasta is tender but still firm to the bite. Scoop up and reserve about 1 cup of pasta cooking water.

Drain pasta and add it to sauce. Stir quickly over medium heat until pasta and sauce are well combined. Add some of reserved pasta water if pasta seems a bit dry.Taste, adjust seasoning and serve.

PENNE WITH ONION, RED BELL PEPPERS AND TOMATOES

Penne alla Peperonata

In Italian home cooking, many vegetable dishes are versatile enough to become sauces for pasta. Here is a perfect example. Peperonata, a traditional Bolognese vegetable dish of slowly braised onion, bell peppers and tomatoes, becomes a terrific sauce for penne, rigatoni or shells. The addition of a bit of pancetta to the vegetables enlivens the dish with extra flavor.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 thick slice (2 to 3 ounces) pancetta, diced, optional

1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced

5 large red bell peppers, (about 2 pounds), cored, seeded and diced

1 pound firm, ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 to 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, optional

1 pound penne rigate or shells

Heat ⅓ cup of oil in a large skillet over medium heat.Add pancetta, if using, and cook, stirring, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes.With a slotted spoon transfer pancetta to a plate.

Place skillet back on medium heat. Add onion, cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes then add peppers. Cook, stirring, until peppers begin to color and soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Return pancetta to skillet, add tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until peppers are tender and juices in skillet have thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Add a little water or broth if juices should reduce too much.Taste and adjust seasoning and turn heat off. (Sauce can be prepared several hours or a day ahead and refrigerated. Reheat gently before using.) Makes 2½ to 3 cups sauce.

Cook pasta in plenty of salted boiling water until tender but still firm to bite. Put skillet back on medium heat. Add remaining oil and balsamic vinegar if using. Stir to blend.

Drain pasta and add to skillet with sauce. Season lightly with salt. Mix quickly over low heat until pasta and sauce are well combined. Taste, adjust seasoning and serve.

TAGLIATELLE BOLOGNA STYLE

Tagliatelle alla Bolognese

For a family meal follow this satisfying dish with some cheese and a green salad.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 cups Bolognese Meat Sauce, page 206 ⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving

Prepare noodles from Basic Egg Pasta Dough. Prepare Bolognese Meat Sauce and keep warm.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add noodles. Bring water back to a boil and cook noodles uncovered until tender but firm to the bite. Drain noodles and place in a warm deep dish or bowl.

Add sauce and ⅓ cup Parmesan cheese. Toss gently until mixed. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese.

GREEN TAGLIATELLE WITH TOMATO