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Fish and shellfish need only a short cooking time. When in doubt, undercook fish, rather than overcooking it. If the flesh flakes easily when pierced with a fork or knife, the fish is cooked. Shellfish is cooked when it is opaque all the way through. If the center of shellfish is transparent, it should be cooked longer.

Fish is high in protein, minerals and vitamins. It is also low in calories. Unfortunately the price of fish today is considerably higher than it used to be. One way to save money is to buy when fish is in season and plentiful. Many dishes in this chapter can be used as appetizers or main courses. Some dishes, like Prawns with Tomato and Garlic, can also become a divine sauce for pasta. Serve fish accompanied by chilled white wine and you will have a perfect union.

I hope the recipes in this chapter will encourage you to try simple but exciting ways to cook fish the Northern Italian way.

WHITE FISH IN SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE

Pesce Bianco in Dolce Forte

This elegant, mouthwatering dish can be done quickly and easily with a nonstick skillet.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

4 white fish fillets, such as orange roughy, sole or halibut (about 1½ pounds)

1 cup all-purpose flour, spread on foil

2 large eggs, lightly beaten in a bowl

1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

1½ cups dry white wine

Juice of 2 lemons

⅓ cup sugar

Salt to taste

Coat fish fillets lightly with flour, shaking off excess. Dip in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs. Press bread crumbs onto fish with the palms of your hands. Set aside.

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter with oil in a large, preferably nonstick, skillet. When butter foams add fish. Cook over medium heat until golden, about 2 minutes on each side. Place fish on a platter.

Discard the fat from the skillet. Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter to skillet. When the butter foams add the wine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the wine is reduced by half. Add lemon juice, sugar and salt to taste. Cook, stirring, over high heat about 1 minute. Return the fish to the skillet and cook 1 minute longer, stirring and moving the fish gently. At this point the sauce should have a thick consistency.

Arrange fish on serving dishes, pour a few tablespoons of sauce over each serving and serve at once.

FISH IN FOIL

Pesce al Cartoccio

Fish cooked in foil or parchment paper retains all its flavor and moisture.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 (3- to 3½-pound) sea bass, striped bass or red snapper, cleaned 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Juice of 1 lemon

⅓ cup olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Lemon wedges

Preheat oven to 400F (205C). Wash fish thoroughly under cold running water. Dry with paper towels. In a small bowl, combine garlic, rosemary, parsley, lemon juice, oil, salt and pepper. Cut a large piece of aluminum foil or parchment paper to twice the size of fish. Lay fish on foil or paper. Fill fish with half the garlic-rosemary mixture. Spread remaining mixture over top of fish. Fold foil or paper over fish. Pleat edges to seal tightly. Place in a baking dish.

Bake 10 minutes per pound, 30 to 35 minutes. Place fish on a board and open foil or paper. Gently remove skin from fish. Cut top half of fish lengthwise into 2 servings and place on plates. Lift off backbone and any loose bones from fish. Divide remaining fish into 2 servings and place on plates. Spoon fish juices over each serving. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Serve with lemon wedges.

Variation

Trout in Foil (Trota al Cartoccio): Substitute 4 trout that have been cleaned but their heads and tails left on.Wrap each trout individually. Let guests unwrap their fish at the table.

FRIED SOLE FILLETS

Filetti di Sogliola Dorati

Sole fillets, breaded and fried lightly in butter, retain all their moisture and delicate flavor.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 cup dry unflavored