Biba's Northern Italian Cooking - Biba Caggiano [40]
In some regions of Italy, rabbit and pheasant are very popular. Rabbit has very little fat. It is delicate in taste with a particular sweet flavor. Rabbit can be cooked in many ways. My favorite method is to braise it in a rich tomato-based sauce. Rabbit cooked this way will retain all its tenderness and moisture. A few slices of steaming polenta make the perfect accompaniment.
Wild pheasant has to be caught, hung, plucked, marinated and cleaned thoroughly before cooking. But the readily available domestic pheasant can be cleaned and cooked much like a chicken. Pheasant, like rabbit, can be fried, roasted or braised. In some regions, pheasant is also cooked on an open spit, basted with lard. However you choose to cook pheasant, serve it with polenta to make an incomparable partnership.
PAN-ROASTED CHICKEN
Pollo Arrosto in Padella
Pan roasting is typically Italian and helps meat to retain its moisture.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 (2½- to 3½-pound) frying chicken, cut into serving pieces
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
½ cup dry white wine
Wash and dry chicken thoroughly. Melt butter with oil in a large skillet. When butter foams, add chicken pieces, garlic and rosemary. Brown chicken on all sides over medium beat. Season with salt and pepper. Add wine and simmer until wine is reduced by half. Partially cover skillet. Cook over medium heat until chicken is tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Place chicken on a warm platter.
If sauce looks dry, stir in a little more wine. If sauce is too thin, increase heat and boil uncovered until it reaches desired thickness. Remove most of the fat from sauce.Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning then spoon over chicken. Serve immediately.
ROAST RABBIT
Coniglio Arrosto
Rabbit marinated in oil and vinegar becomes especially tender and flavorful.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1 (2½- to 3-pound) rabbit
Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary
4 fresh sage leaves or ½ teaspoon rubbed sage
2 garlic cloves
10 juniper berries
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 to 5 tablespoons white wine vinegar
½ cup olive oil
Cut rabbit into serving pieces or ask the butcher to do so.Wash and dry thoroughly.
Coarsely chop rosemary, sage and garlic together. Crush juniper berries; add to rosemary mixture. Rub rabbit pieces with rosemary-juniper mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Put rabbit pieces into a large bowl. Add vinegar and oil. Let marinate in the refrigerator 3 to 4 hours, turning meat a few times.
Place rabbit and marinade in a large, heavy casserole. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cover casserole. Simmer 40 to 50 minutes, stirring a few times during cooking. Increase heat to medium-high. Cook uncovered until rabbit is tender, 10 to 15 minutes and only a few tablespoons of sauce remain.
Place rabbit on a warm platter.Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over rabbit. Serve immediately.
RABBIT WITH WINE AND VEGETABLES
Coniglio alla Reggiana
Nothing was ever left on our plates after my mother served this special dish.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1 (2½- to 3-pound) rabbit
1½ cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes
¼ cup butter
¼ pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced
2 large onions, thinly sliced
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
¾ cup dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 garlic cloves, chopped
Cut rabbit into serving pieces or ask the butcher to do so.Wash and dry thoroughly.
Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds. Melt butter in a large heavy casserole. When butter foams, add rabbit pieces, pancetta, onions, carrot and celery. Cook over medium heat until rabbit is golden on all sides. Stir