Biba's Northern Italian Cooking - Biba Caggiano [51]
Combine 3 tablespoons of the butter, wine and sliced onions in a medium saucepan or casserole. Cook covered over low heat 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Onions should be moist and creamy. If sauce looks too dry, add a little chicken broth or water. If there is too much liquid, increase heat and cook uncovered 3 to 5 minutes.
Melt remaining butter in a large heavy skillet over high heat. When butter begins to turn brown, add sliced liver. Cook, l½ to 2 minutes on each side. Inside of liver should be pale pink.
Spoon onion sauce onto 4 warm serving plates. Arrange 2 or 3 slices of liver on top of sauce. Garnish each serving with chervil or parsley. Serve immediately.
Veal and Beef
In Italy, milk-fed veal is one of the most popular meats. Before we moved to California from New York, my husband was offered an attractive position in a renowned Midwestern hospital.We took a trip there to explore his future job and the lifestyle.The state was very beautiful and the position offered to my husband was prestigious. Unfortunately, it was almost impossible to find Italian ingredients in the area. Milk-fed veal was rarely available. My husband turned down the job. We were ready to change our lifestyle, but not to the point of changing our eating habits so drastically. Today, it is easier to find Italian ingredients and milk-fed veal there.
Veal can be sautéed, braised, fried, stewed, roasted or poached. A popular example of a braised dish is Veal Shanks Milan Style.Veal shanks are a relatively inexpensive cut of meat.When cooked by slow braising, the meat becomes tender enough to cut with a fork. If you intend to stew veal, use a less expensive cut.This usually comes from the shoulder. An excellent veal roast can be obtained from boned breast of veal.This is one of the less-expensive cuts.The veal can be stuffed and rolled, then pan roasted.The result is a juicy, tender roast.Veal can be poached to produce one of the best and most famous northern Italian dishes, Vitello Tonnato, Cold Veal with Tuna Sauce.
There are probably several reasons why beef is not a favorite with Italians. Whether these reasons stem from an innate preference or are the result of centuries of economic and social conditions, the fact remains.Yet, strangely enough, Italy produces some of the best beef in the world. A prize-winning beef admired by cattle raisers the world over, is the Chianina beef of Tuscany.The best charcoal-broiled steak of Italy is found in Florence and is made from Chianina beef.
Aside from the celebrated Florentine Steak, beef in Italy is used mostly in pot roasts or stews cooked slowly with wine, herbs and vegetables.
When selecting beef, look for a rich color with marbling of fat. Marbling is important for a cut of meat that will be broiled or roasted.This cut of beef is generally more expensive but will be tender and juicy when cooked. A less-expensive cut of meat with less marbling is best for braising or stewing.The slow, moist cooking will produce tender and flavorful dishes.
When serving meat that will follow a pasta dish, try to balance and complement the two. If a rich, substantial first course like lasagne is served, the meat that follows should be extremely light and simple. Roast veal or pork, or veal scaloppine would be suitable. Even the vegetables should be served with a minimum of sauce.When a simple first course like Risotto with Parmesan cheese is served, the meat that follows can have a variety of sauces. Choose Braised Beef in Barolo Wine or Eggplants and Cutlets Parmigiana.
I hope one point will be clear from this chapter and throughout the book. A grasp of the underlying mood of Northern Italian cuisine is more important than a technically perfect execution of a recipe.
VEAL CHOPS MILAN STYLE
Costolette di Vitello Alla Milanese
Who said it takes forever to cook good Italian food? This dish proves otherwise.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
6 veal loin chops, ¾ inch thick
¾ cup dry unflavored bread crumbs