Biba's Northern Italian Cooking - Biba Caggiano [60]
The patient wait for seasonal vegetables becomes especially rewarding when the first tiny peas or tender asparagus arrive on the market. When buying seasonal vegetables the good cook knows she is buying the freshest and most flavorful produce. She also knows she is saving money. Once you have bought the best possible produce, very little is needed to enhance its flavor.Why cover tender green asparagus with a rich, filling sauce? Why not boil it briefly then dress it simply with olive oil and lemon juice? Or sprinkle it with cheese, dot with a little butter and broil until the cheese is melted.
Italians love raw vegetables. One of the favorite ways to eat them is dipped in olive oil and salt. What could be simpler than that? This practice must have had a humble origin, but today some of the best restaurants serve vegetables this way.
A relative newcomer to Italian cuisine is the tomato. Tomatoes were introduced into Europe from North America around the year 1500. They were treated with suspicion and used like an exotic garden plant for many years.Today we can hardly imagine Italian cuisine without the tomato. A plump, sun-ripened tomato sliced and dressed with fresh basil and olive oil is delicious.
PEPERONATA
In Bologna, Peperonata is served with Mixed Boiled Meats, page 161, and Green Sauce, page 206.
MAKES 3½ TO 4 CUPS OR 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
⅓ cup olive oil
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
5 sweet peppers, green and red, seeded, cut into strips
5 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
¼ cup red wine vinegar
Heat oil in a large skillet. Add onions and peppers. Sauté over medium heat until onions are light golden and peppers have softened. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, salt and pepper. Cover and cook over medium heat 30 to 35 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add vinegar and mix well. Cook uncovered 10 minutes longer. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Serve hot or at room temperature.
BAKED ASPARAGUS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE
Asparagi alla Parmigiana
Select small asparagus with firm, tightly closed tips for this authentic dish from Parma.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
2½ pounds asparagus
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons butter
Preheat oven to 350F (175C). Butter a 13 × 9-inch baking dish. Cut off tough asparagus ends. Using a sharp knife or potato peeler, peel outer skin from asparagus.Tie asparagus together in 1 or 2 bunches with string or rubber bands.
Pour cold salted water 2 to 3 inches deep in an asparagus cooker, tall stockpot or old coffeepot. Place asparagus upright in water. Bring water to a boil. Cover and cook over high heat 6 to 8 minutes, depending on size.
Drain on paper towels; remove string or rubber bands. Arrange drained asparagus slightly overlapping in buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and dot with butter. Bake 10 to 15 minutes or until cheese is melted. For a light-golden topping, put baked asparagus briefly under a hot broiler. Serve hot.
BROCCOLI WITH GARLIC AND ANCHOVIES
Broccoli in Padella con Acciughe
This is an excellent and simple vegetable dish in the true Italian manner.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
2 pounds broccoli
¼ cup olive oil
3 garlic cloves, chopped
3 flat anchovy fillets, mashed
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
Cut off tough bottoms from broccoli. Using a sharp knife or potato peeler, peel outer skin. Divide broccoli and wash thoroughly under cold running water.
Fill a large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add broccoli and reduce heat. Simmer 5 to 8 minutes or until stalks are tender. Drain on paper towels.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in garlic and anchovies. Add drained broccoli. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with parsley.Turn broccoli gently and cook 3 to 5 minutes.