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Biba's Northern Italian Cooking - Biba Caggiano [71]

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large pieces. Heat oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add tomatoes, carrots, celery, onion, basil and parsley and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium. Cook uncovered 30 to 40 minutes or until sauce reaches a medium-thick consistency. Taste and adjust for seasoning.

Press everything through a food mill and back into saucepan. Cook 20 to 30 minutes longer.

MAYONNAISE


Maionese

One of the secrets of homemade mayonnaise is to have all ingredients and utensils at room temperature.

MAKES 1½ CUPS

2 egg yolks, preferably pasteurized (see Note below)

Salt to taste

1½ cups olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Place egg yolks in a round-bottom bowl. Add salt. Beat until yolks are pale yellow. Very slowly beat in a few drops of oil. Do not add oil too quickly or mayonnaise will curdle. Add remaining oil very slowly, beating constantly. Beat in lemon juice.Taste and adjust for seasoning. Refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.

Variations

Stir in 2 tablespoons Pesto Sauce, page 205, or 2 tablespoons Green Sauce, page 206, for green mayonnaise to serve with fish. Sauces must be at room temperature before adding to mayonnaise.

Note

Anyone with a compromised immune system, including children, the elderly or anyone with a serious illness, should not eat raw eggs because of the possibility of salmonella poisoning. If you want to make a recipe that calls for uncooked eggs, look for the pasteurized eggs that are available in some markets.

BASIC WHITE SAUCE


Salsa Balsamella

Whether French or Italian in origin, this sauce is vital to many Italian dishes.

Bring milk almost to a boil; set aside. Melt butter in a medium saucepan. When butter foams, stir in flour. Let mixture bubble gently over low heat 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Do not let mixture brown.Whisk in milk all at once.Whisk until smooth. Season with salt. Simmer 3 to 5 minutes, whisking constantly until sauce has a medium-thick consistency. Reduce or increase cooking time for a thinner or thicker sauce. If not using immediately, rub surface of sauce with ½ tablespoon softened butter to prevent a skin from forming.

PESTO SAUCE


Pesto

If you plan to freeze the sauce, add the cheese after the sauce has thawed.

MAKES 1 CUP

3 cups loosely packed fresh basil

¾ cup olive oil

¼ cup pine nuts

3 garlic cloves, peeled

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons Romano pecorino cheese or Parmesan cheese

Put basil, oil, pine nuts, garlic and salt into a blender or food processor. Process until smooth. Pour sauce into a small bowl. Add Parmesan cheese and Romano pecorino cheese or extra Parmesan cheese. Mix to blend.Taste and adjust for seasoning.

GREEN SAUCE


Salsa Verde

This sauce is the perfect accompaniment for Mixed Boiled Meats, Page 161.

MAKES ¾ CUP

1 slice white bread

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 cups loosely packed parsley

2 garlic cloves, peeled

4 flat anchovy fillets

1 tablespoon capers

½ cup olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Remove crust from bread. Tear bread into pieces and place in a small bowl. Pour vinegar over bread; let stand 10 minutes. Put into a blender or food processor. Add parsley, garlic, anchovies, capers and oil. Process until smooth. Place sauce in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate. Serve at room temperature.

Variation

Substitute lemon juice for the vinegar and serve with fish.

BOLOGNESE MEAT SAUCE


Ragù alla Bolognese

The recipe for this classic sauce has been in my family for generations.

MAKES 2½ TO 3 CUPS

¼ cup butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

¼ pound pancetta, page 4, finely chopped

1½ pounds ground veal

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 cup dry white wine

1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style tomatoes

½ cup milk


Melt butter with oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.When butter foams, add onion, carrot, celery and pancetta. Sauté until lightly browned.

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