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Serve the braised quarters with the loin.

Note

The leftover forequarters (if there are any) can be turned into a spread, which you can serve on toast for lunch the next day. Just pick the meat off the bone and pulse until smooth in a food processor.

Photographs by Sara Remington

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Spring Risotto

Risotto calls for a short-grain rice, usually Arborio or Carnaroli, that’s cooked with a flavorful liquid until some of the risotto’s starch breaks down to create the dish’s trademark creaminess. It’s important to cook your rice in a richly seasoned stock so the risotto will absorb its flavor while it cooks. To add more flavor, just pick whatever’s fresh and in season. Peas in spring, corn in summer, squash in fall, carrots in winter—feel free to experiment.

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INGREDIENTS

Kosher salt

1 ¼ cups shelled English peas

1 ¼ cups shelled fava beans

1 cup fresh corn kernels

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

1 ½ cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice

¼ cup dry white wine

3 ½ cups chicken stock, warmed

2 whole scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced

2 ounces Parmesan, grated (about ¼ cup)

2 cups rich beef broth (recipe follows)

Rich Beef Broth

INGREDIENTS

1 quart beef broth

½ onion

½ carrot

½ celery stalk

½ red bell pepper

½ garlic clove

1 bay leaf

1 flat-leaf parsley stem

Kosher salt and black pepper

Serves 4

Fill a medium bowl halfway with water, and put about a dozen ice cubes in it. Set it aside.

Bring a quart of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add 1 tablespoon salt, and blanch the peas in the boiling water until they’re bright green and tender, about 3 minutes. Immediately strain out the peas (reserving the hot water for the other vegetables) and use a colander to place them in the ice water (the ice water will stop them from overcooking and help them retain their color). Let them cool for 2 minutes. Reserve the peas and repeat the same process with the fava beans (3 minutes in the boiling water) and corn kernels (5 to 7 minutes in the boiling water).

Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, and add the onions. Season them lightly with salt and pepper, and sweat until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the rice, and stir to coat with the butter. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes to “sear” the grain—this step will ensure that the risotto will have a bite to it. Deglaze the pan with the wine, and simmer until it has evaporated. Then add 3 cups of the warm chicken stock and cook, stirring continuously, until the risotto is tender, about 15 minutes. If necessary, continue cooking, adding the remaining ½ cup stock if the risotto starts to dry out. The risotto is ready when it’s al dente, with a thick and creamy consistency.

Stir in the blanched peas, fava beans, and corn kernels, along with the scallions, Parmesan, and remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Check the seasoning, and add more salt and pepper if necessary. Place the risotto in individual bowls, ladle the beef broth around it, and serve.

Makes 2 cups

Combine all the ingredients except the salt and pepper in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and let simmer for 40 minutes.

Strain, put the liquid back into the saucepan, and reduce by half. Season with salt and pepper.

Photographs by Sara Remington

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House-Cured Salmon

The idea of home-curing your own salmon sounds old-fashioned and complicated, but it’s actually really easy. This salmon is great served in omelets, scrambled eggs, and sandwiches, not to mention on top of bagels or pizza (once it’s come out of the oven). What’s more, cured salmon keeps far longer than fresh fish, and has a different flavor and texture than a typical salmon steak. We make ours salty and sweet and add peppercorns and dill, but if you’ve got other favorite herbs and spices—or even liquors—feel free to throw those in as well. The only crucial thing is to cure the