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This salad is a showcase for fresh figs. They make a brief appearance in most marketplaces, so you’ve got to make the most of their honey-sweet flesh when you can. Slices of richly flavored, smoky-salty Kentucky ham make a fantastic pairing. Kentucky ham is a dry-cured country ham comparable to an Italian prosciutto or Spanish Serrano ham. While you could substitute either, I love both the taste and the homegrown appeal of Kentucky ham. Sweet pecans add a bit of crunch to the salad, and the tangy molasses-mustard vinaigrette enhances its southern vibe.

Serves 4

¼ pound baby arugula

5 fresh figs, preferably Black Mission, quartered

Molasses-Mustard Dressing

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ pound thinly sliced country ham

½ cup pecans, toasted

2 green onions, green and pale green parts, thinly sliced

4 (½-inch-thick) slices country bread, grilled until marked

½ cup ricotta cheese

1. Put the arugula and figs in a large bowl. Add half of the dressing, season with salt and pepper, and toss gently to coat the ingredients.

2. Divide the greens and figs among 4 large plates. Place a slice or two of ham on the side of each, drizzle with more of the dressing, and garnish with the pecans and green onions. Top the grilled bread with the ricotta and serve alongside the salad.

MOLASSES-MUSTARD DRESSING

Makes about ¾ cup

3 tablespoons molasses

1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar

1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon honey

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup canola oil

Combine the molasses, 2 tablespoons water, the vinegar, mustard, honey, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl and whisk until combined. Slowly whisk in the oil until emulsified. The dressing can be made 1 day in advance and stored in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator.

WARM LENTIL SALAD

ROASTED BEETS, GOAT CHEESE

Tangy goat cheese and sweet beets are a famously good pairing; it is with good reason that so many French brasseries and bistros have a salad featuring the two on their menus. Lentils are another ingredient favored in France, and the combination of the three makes for one very satisfying salad. (Crispy bits of smoky bacon don’t hurt either.) I don’t recommend cheating with canned lentils. The texture and flavor of dried lentils cooked in a well-seasoned stock is far superior, and they cook up in no time.

Serves 4

3 medium red or gold beets, trimmed and scrubbed

3 tablespoons canola oil

2 small carrots, 1 quartered and 1 finely diced

1 medium Spanish onion, quartered

1 small stalk celery, quartered

1 bay leaf

5 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 2 teaspoons finely chopped

1 quart chicken stock, homemade or store-bought

1¼ cups dried French green lentils

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ pound slab bacon, diced

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

3 ounces chopped frisée or mixed greens

Sherry Vinaigrette

4 (½-inch-thick) slices fresh goat cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

2. Put each beet on its own piece of aluminum foil. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Wrap the beets tightly, place on a baking sheet, and roast in the oven until cooked through, about 1 hour. Remove the beets from the oven, let cool slightly, and then remove the skins. Cut into ¼-inch-thick slices.

3. Place the quartered carrot, onion, and celery and the bay leaf, thyme sprigs, and chicken stock in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stir in the lentils, and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the lentils are tender, about 25 minutes. Drain well and discard the carrot, onion, celery, bay leaf, and thyme.

4. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat, add the bacon, and cook until crisp and golden brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon with a slotted spoon to a dish lined with paper towels. Add the garlic and diced carrot to the pan and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the cooked lentils and bacon and stir to combine. Stir in the chopped