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3. Heat the butter in a medium sauté pan over medium heat, add the brown sugar and salt, and cook until melted. Add the apples and the raisin mixture and cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples are soft, about 15 minutes.

4. Preheat the broiler.

5. Place a few tablespoons of the apple mixture in the bottom of 4 ovenproof bowls or ramekins. Divide half of the oatmeal on top. Make a second layer with the remaining apple mixture and top with the remaining oatmeal, smoothing out the top. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the turbinado sugar evenly over the top of each serving.

6. Place the bowls on a baking sheet and put under the broiler. Broil until the sugar is golden brown and completely melted, about 1 minute. Remove from the oven and let rest for a few minutes before serving. Crack the top of the sugar crust with a spoon and pour in some of the cinnamon cream. Serve immediately.

CINNAMON CREAM

Makes 1 scant cup

½ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream

2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Whisk together the cream, crème fraîche, maple syrup, orange juice, and cinnamon in a small bowl.

Cracked Wheat Waffles

CRACKED WHEAT WAFFLES

CINNAMON-ALLSPICE BUTTER, BLUEBERRY SYRUP

Nutty cracked wheat (okay, it’s technically bulgur) adds a welcome touch of texture to these waffles. Made with whole wheat flour, the waffles are a bit healthier and heartier than standard ones without being the least bit leaden. Spicy cinnamon and complex allspice lend their flavors to the creamy butter. A sweet blueberry syrup drizzled—or ladled—over the waffles makes the whole dish special. I wouldn’t recommend making the syrup with frozen berries as they are too wet to burst as the fresh berries do. If you have extra berries left over, sprinkle them on top before serving.

Serves 4 to 6

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon fine salt

2¼ cups buttermilk

2 large eggs

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 tablespoons canola oil, plus more for cooking

½ cup fine bulgur

Cinnamon-Allspice Butter

Blueberry Syrup

1. Whisk together the flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl.

2. Whisk together the buttermilk, eggs, butter, and oil in a separate large bowl. Add the flour mixture and bulgur to the buttermilk mixture and whisk until just combined. Let the batter rest for 15 minutes.

3. Preheat the oven to 200°F.

4. Heat a waffle iron according to the manufacturer’s instructions and brush or spray with a little canola oil. Add the batter and cook until the waffles are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Place on a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while you cook the remaining waffles.

5. Top each waffle with some of the spiced butter and drizzle with the blueberry syrup.

CINNAMON-ALLSPICE BUTTER

Makes ½ cup

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, slightly softened

1 tablespoon honey

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

Pinch of fine salt

Stir together the butter, honey, cinnamon, allspice, and salt in a small bowl until combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days before serving. Let soften slightly before serving.

BLUEBERRY SYRUP

Makes about 1¾ cups

1 cup pure maple syrup

¾ cup fresh blueberries

Combine the maple syrup and blueberries in a small saucepan and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cook until the blueberries soften slightly and the mixture is warm, about 5 minutes. Serve warm.

Buttermilk Flapjacks

BUTTERMILK FLAPJACKS

ROASTED APRICOTS, PECANS, MAPLE SYRUP

It used to be that flapjacks were made from a corn-based batter, this being the major distinction between them and their close cousin pancakes, which were made from a wheat flour–based batter. Today the two terms are roughly synonymous, though I love the heartiness that the term flapjacks