Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [108]
I like combining parsnip and parsley root—it’s a visual trick, because they look the same but taste different. You can substitute other root vegetables, such as rutabaga or celeriac, just watch the cooking time—or roast them separately and add them to the ribs for the final glazing.
4 pieces elk ribs, about 3 pounds (1.35 kg)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 Spanish onion, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks
4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 3 pieces each
1 celery stalk, diced
1 cup (250 ml) dry red wine
1 orange 1 lemon
1 cup (250 ml) Game Stock (page 204)
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, crushed
2 garlic cloves, crushed
4 parsley roots, peeled
4 parsnips, peeled
1. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Pat the meat dry, and season with salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven or flameproof casserole, heat the oil over medium heat and brown the ribs, in batches, on both sides. Transfer them to a plate and add the onion, carrots, and celery to the pot. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes, or until the onion softens slightly.
2. Pour in the red wine and bring to a boil, deglazing the pot by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom. Meanwhile, grate the zest from the orange, then juice it. Add enough lemon juice to the orange juice to make ½ cup (125 ml).
3. Pour the juice and stock into the pot, and add the zest, coriander, garlic, and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the ribs to the pot, along with any juices, making sure they are almost submerged in the liquid. Place the parsley root on top and cover with a damp piece of parchment paper and the lid. Braise in the oven for 1 hour.
4. Add the parsnips, cover with the parchment and lid, and cook for another 1½ hours. Uncover and cook for another 30 minutes, or until the ribs and vegetables are very tender.
5. Transfer the ribs and vegetables to a dish to cool, then cover. Strain the cooking liquid into a glass measuring cup or a bowl and leave to cool. Refrigerate them both until the fat sets, or overnight.
6. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Remove the meat and vegetables from the refrigerator and take off any fat. Cut the ribs into smaller pieces, and place them in a baking dish with the vegetables. Cover and transfer to the oven to heat through, about 30 minutes.
7. Remove the fat from the sauce and bring to a boil. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C) and pour the sauce over the ribs and vegetables. Bake uncovered for about 15 to 20 minutes, basting 3 to 4 times, until the ribs are well glazed.
Wild Boar Chops Martini-Style
I had been developing green martinis for a magazine story (the recipe for the martini follows) and had bottles of gin and Chartreuse in my kitchen. Juniper, a natural with game, is a basic flavoring in gin. So, I thought, why not throw in the gin, plus a little of that Chartreuse for an extra herbal boost? Use a premium gin and green Chartreuse, which is more herbal than the yellow one.
6 wild boar loin chops, ½ to ¾ inch (1 to 2 cm) thick
Olive Oil Marinade (page 212)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon gin
6 juniper berries, crushed
2 tablespoons Chartreuse
½ teaspoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon chervil or flat-leaf parsley leaves, optional
1. Place the chops in a dish and pour over the marinade, turning the chops so they are well coated. Refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours.
2. Thirty minutes before cooking, remove the chops from the refrigerator.
3. Remove the chops from the marinade (reserve the marinade), pat dry, and season with salt and pepper. In a large frying pan with a lid, heat the oil until very hot. Brown the chops for 1 minute on each side, then transfer them to a plate.
4. Discard any fat from the pan, add the marinade, and bring to a boil, deglazing the pan by scraping