Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [112]
2. One hour before cooking, remove the shank from the refrigerator.
3. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Remove and discard the rind from the bacon, then cut it into ¼-inch (5-mm) dice. Place it in a small saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Drain the bacon in a sieve and rinse under cold running water; set aside.
4. Remove the shank from the marinade and pat dry. Strain the marinade through a sieve, and keep the vegetables and liquid separate.
5. In a Dutch oven or flameproof casserole large enough to hold the shank, heat the oil over medium heat. Season the shank with salt and pepper, then brown it on all sides. Transfer it to a plate. Lower the heat, add the bacon to the pot, and cook until it begins to pop and render its fat. Add the reserved vegetables from the marinade and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, or until the liquid boils off and the vegetables begin to stick to the bottom of the pot. Pour in the marinade liquid and bring to a boil, deglazing the pot by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom.
6. Remove from the heat, lay the browned shank on top of the vegetables, and season again with salt and pepper. Cover the shank with a damp piece of parchment paper and then the lid. Place in the oven and braise for 1½ hours.
7. Carefully turn the shank and baste it. Replace the parchment paper and the lid, and cook for another 1½ to 2 hours. Although the meat will shrink quite dramatically from the bone, that does not mean that it is cooked; cook the shank until the meat is very tender and almost falling off the bone. Carefully transfer the shank to a platter and keep warm, loosely covered with aluminum foil.
8. Strain the sauce through a sieve into a glass measuring cup, let stand. You will have 1½ to 2 cups (375 to 500 ml). Skim off any fat, pour back into the pot then bring to a boil. Boil hard for 5 minutes to reduce the sauce to about 1 cup (250 ml). Add the red currant jelly and rosemary leaves, and check the seasoning.
9. Serve the shank with the sauce.
NOTE: To prepare this dish ahead, transfer the cooked shank to a platter and allow it to cool. Strain the sauce through a sieve into a glass measuring cup; do not reduce it. Once both the shank and sauce are cool, cover and refrigerate them separately. The fat will set on top of the sauce and can easily be removed. Reheat the shank gently in the sauce, covered in a 300°F (150°C) oven. When it is hot, remove and keep warm while you reduce the sauce as above and add the jelly and rosemary leaves.
Venison Osso Buco with Quince and Ginger
Quinces are not a pretty fruit: at first glance, you might mistake them for large, misshapen apples. But these lumpy, greenish-yellow fruit, while impossible to eat raw, transform when cooked, becoming tender and rosy-hued. They have a powerful fragrance that conjures up vanilla, musk, lemon blossoms, and pineapple. Fruit and game are a natural match, and the power of quinces complements strong game well. Fresh ginger emphasizes the quince’s aroma and cuts through the richness of the meat.
The term osso buco originally denoted thick pieces of veal shank but is now often used to describe the same cut from other animals. If you can’t find quinces, you can substitute apples (see the sidebar). The recipe can be made ahead and reheated but don’t prepare the gremolata until just before serving.
Four 1½ to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm) thick pieces venison shank, about 12 ounces (350 g) each
2 tablespoons flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups (500 ml) Game Stock (page 204)
¼ cup (60 ml) julienned fresh ginger, plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely diced ginger
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons grenadine
2 cloves
2 quinces
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
½ cup (125 ml) loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (160