Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [122]
T
tamarind, pineapple, and chile-glazed boar ribs, 229
tarragon:
in chicken with Riesling, 155
in herb-glazed poussins, 140-41
in poached chicken with seasonal vegetables, 142-43
thyme
in braised short ribs, 32
in brine for pork, 57
in brown stock, 12-13
in chicken with forty cloves of garlic, 138
in court bouillon, 60
in fish stock, 169-70
in four bones in one pot, 37-38
in game stock, 204-5
in grilled fish with yellow tomato vinaigrette, 184
in guinea hen with raspberries, 145
in herb-glazed poussins, 140-41
in lamb and barley soup, 97
in lamb chops with caramelized leeks, 109
in lamb ribs with beans and spinach, 113
in lamb stock, 95
in orange-Campari-braised pork shoulder, 67-68
in oxtail consommé with sherry, 16-18
in pork stock, 58
in poultry stock, 130
in roasted squab with fresh figs, 152
in smoked hock with black-eyed peas, 81
tidal pools, 174-75
tomatoes:
in braised hock with fennel three ways, 80
in braised short ribs, 32
in chicken with Riesling, 155
in eel in sweet-sour fruit sauce, 190-91
in fish soup, 176-77
fresh, sauce, sea bass baked in a salt crust with, 181
in lamb shoulder ratatouille- style, 101-2
in maple tomato glazed ribs, 73
in whiting en papillote, 185
yellow, vinaigrette, grilled fish with, 184
trussing poultry, 144
turkey:
carcass, for roasted bird broth, 135
in post-Thanksgiving soup, 136
turnips:
in braised oxtail with root vegetables, 47-48
duck legs with cumin, green olives and, 157-58
in game soup, 210
in lamb and barley soup, 97
in Lancashire hot pot revisited, 103-4
in poached chicken with seasonal vegetables, 142-43
V
veal, 11
breast of, 35-36
carving shoulder of, 20
chops, roasted, with Madeira and parsnips, 21
osso buco with fennel and blood orange sauce, 41-42
shank with mustard and sage, 43
shoulder with salsa verde, 19-20
stock, concentrated brown or white, 13-14
vegetables:
braised oxtail with root, 47-48
poached chicken with seasonal, 142-43
rabbit in saffron sauce with
spring, 216-17
venison, 200-202
in game consommé, 208-9
neck, 237
osso buco with quince and
ginger, 236-37
roasted rack of, with Cape gooseberry sauce, 224-25
roast leg of, 232-33
shank in rosemary-wine sauce, 234-35
wine-braised, 222-23
W
wasabi-coated lamb chops, 112
watercress, for Cantonese-style steamed fish, 188
Westwood, Vivienne, 162
whalebone, 197
whitebait, whole fried, 179
white veal stock, 13
white wine:
in breast of veal, 35-36
in fish stock, 169-70
in herb-glazed poussins, 140-41
in lamb neck with lettuce and dill, 120-21
in lamb shoulder ratatouille-style, 101-2
for rabbit in saffron sauce with spring vegetables, 216-17
in seven-hour leg of lamb, 114
in veal shank with sage and mustard, 43
in whole roasted monkfish (gigot de mer), 186-87
whiting en papillote, 185
wild boar, 202
wines, see red wine; white wine
wings, chicken:
à la Coca-Cola, 159
soy-glazed, 160
wishbones, 136-37,141,151,153
wonton wrappers, for liver dumplings, 209
Y
yogurt glaze, spiced, for lamb ribs, 111
Z
zucchini, in lamb shoulder, ratatouille-style, 101-2
Acknowledgments
Looking back to my childhood, I don’t remember either of my grandmothers ever cooking a single meal, but I do remember eating and I know that the appreciation of good food, all the way down to its bones, began early for me. Meal times were important and the food was plain but good. My mother, Claudine, and her sisters, my aunts, Pat and Joyce, cooked because that’s what wives and mothers did. They were frugal, able to make a meal out of almost nothing. From them, right from the start, I learned that food was valuable and not to be wasted, an important lesson, and I thank them for that.
As a professional cook, I have been influenced by a host of chefs, cooks, and food writers whom I’ve met through my work, in my travels, and through reading their books. Special thanks go to Chris McDonald of Avalon restaurant, and Andrew Milne-Allan and Louis Alves of Zucca restaurant.
A cook is nothing without quality products.