Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [22]
In the late seventeenth through the eighteenth century, eating marrow became very popular among the upper classes, and special silver marrow scoops were all the rage. Some of these had a regular spoon-shaped bowl and a handle that was a long scoop. Others were composed of two scoops, one a shorter, wider channel to scoop the marrow from larger bones, one long and narrow, for smaller bones. These fine silver spoons are highly collectible today and, in their time, were a common target of thieves. The proceedings of the Old Bailey Courts in London reveal that, in May 1771, a certain Robert Roberts was found guilty of stealing sixteen silver marrow spoons; his punishment was transportation to Australia.
Marrow spoons are coming back into fashion. For those who can’t find or afford antique silver ones, horn and metal marrow spoons are readily available. These spoons are not essential to enjoy marrow; a table knife or an espresso spoon will easily extract the marrow. A lobster pick is also effective. And of course you can always just suck out the marrow. There’s no need to smash your bones.
Braised Oxtail with Root Vegetables
The secret to preparing oxtail is to cook it a day or two before serving to allow all the fat to rise to the top of the dish, making it easy to remove. Should you be so lucky, any leftover meat, taken off the bone, makes a hearty pasta sauce or ragu. Oxtail can be substituted in almost any beef stew recipe. It takes a little longer to become meltingly tender, but its rich flavor and unctuous texture make it worthwhile. The English food writer Arabella Boxer inspired this recipe.
5 pounds (2.25 kg) oxtail, cut into pieces ¼ cup (30 g) flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 carrots, peeled, 2 cut into chunks, 2 cut into batons
4 celery stalks, 2 cut into chunks, 2 cut into batons
1 large onion, cut into wedges
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 bottle (750 ml) hearty dry red wine
2 cups (500 ml) Brown Stock (page 12)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 bay leaves
5 parsley stems
2 turnips, peeled and cut into batons
2 parsnips, peeled and cut into batons
1.Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Trim the excess fat off the oxtail and pat dry. Season the flour with salt and pepper, then dredge the oxtail in the flour, shaking off any excess. In a Dutch oven or flameproof casserole, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Brown the oxtail in batches; as they brown, transfer them to a plate.
2.Discard any fat from the pot, then add the chunks of carrot and celery, the onion, and garlic. Pour in 2 cups (500 ml) of the red wine and bring to a boil, deglazing the pot by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom. Stir in the stock and tomato paste, then add the bay leaves and parsley.
3.Return the oxtail to the pot, and cover with a damp piece of parchment paper and then the lid. Braise in the oven for 3 to 4 hours (timing will depend on the size of the pieces). The meat should be tender but not falling off the bone. Transfer the oxtail to a platter, and strain the liquid into a large glass measuring cup or a bowl. Leave to cool, then cover both and refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove all the fat from the top of the jellied liquid and any from the oxtail pieces. Preheat the oven to 350°f (175°C).
4.Put the liquid in a saucepan with the remaining wine, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Place the oxtail in a baking dish and pour the sauce over it. Set aside.
5.Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil, and blanch the turnips, parsnips, and the remaining carrots and celery for 2 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold water. Scatter the vegetables over the oxtail. Transfer to the oven and cook, uncovered, for 1 hour, or until the oxtail is almost falling from the bone.
Oxtail Dividends
ο Oxtail makes an excellent pasta sauce. Take the cooked meat off the bones and add to your homemade sauce. Or use the meat to make a filling for wontons (page 18) to add to soup or consommé.
BIZARRE BONES