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By Root 505 0

a nonreactive container for brining, such as a glass or stainless steel bowl or even a plastic bucket, the container must be large enough to submerge the meat completely in the brining solution. This recipe makes enough brine for a crown roast of pork; it can easily be halved for brining a smaller piece of meat. Specific instructions are given with each recipe, as the brining time depends on the size and shape of the cut. Make sure the brining solution is cold before adding the meat.

1 cup (130 g) kosher salt

½ cup (100 g) sugar

1 tablespoon coriander seeds, crushed

1 tablespoon black peppercorns, crushed

8 allspice berries, crushed

6 juniper berries, crushed

4 garlic cloves, crushed

4 bay leaves, crushed

4 thyme sprigs

1. Put the salt, sugar, and 4 cups (11) water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Boil for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and pour into the brining container. Add the coriander seeds, peppercorns, allspice and juniper berries, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme, and pour in 12 cups (3 1) cold water.

2. Once the brining solution is completely cool, add the meat. To submerge the meat, weight it down using a plate and a jar filled with water. (Do not use a metal weight or jar with a metal lid, as it would react with the brine.) Refrigerate the meat in the brine according to the individual recipe instructions.

Pork Stock

Admittedly not as useful as veal or chicken stock, pork stock nonetheless makes a good basis for certain soups and for sauces to accompany pork. Use only uncured pork bones to make it. The smoky flavor of ham bones or those from other cured cuts would overpower the stock; they are best added to lentils or beans. As with any bones, they can be saved in the freezer until you have enough, or ask your butcher to set them aside for you. Skin, feet, and ears are good additions to the stock because they increase the gelatin content. A small pig’s foot (have your butcher cut it into pieces) or a piece of skin about 6 inches (15 cm) square, with the fat removed, will be enough for this stock. Add either one with the bones.

4½ pounds (2 kg) meaty pork bones, cut into 2- to 3-inch (5- to 7.5-cm) pieces

1 small pig’s foot, cut into pieces, optional

2 medium carrots, sliced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 large onion, unpeeled, cut into wedges

Green tops of 3 leeks, sliced

6 flat-leaf parsley stems

1 large thyme sprig

1 bay leaf

A large strip of lemon zest

3 garlic cloves

¼ teaspoon black peppercorns

Kosher salt, optional

1. Rinse the bones and foot, if using, under cold running water, then place in a large stockpot. Add the carrots, celery, onion, leeks, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, lemon zest, and garlic. Pour in enough cold water to cover the bones, about 12 cups (31), and bring slowly to a boil. As soon as the stock begins to boil, reduce the heat so that it simmers. Using a soup ladle, skim off any scum that has risen to the surface (rotate its bowl on the surface of the stock to make ripples: these will carry the scum to the edges of the pot, and you can then use the ladle to lift it off). Add the peppercorns and simmer, uncovered, for 5 hours, skimming from time to time.

2. Strain the stock through a sieve into a large bowl. Discard the debris left in the sieve, and cool the stock quickly by placing the bowl in a larger bowl or sink filled with ice water; stir occasionally as it cools. When you taste the stock, you will notice that something is missing—the salt. It was deliberately left out so that you can reduce the stock, if desired, without any fear that it will become too salty. If you will not be reducing the stock (see page 59), add about 1 teaspoon salt.

3. Refrigerate the stock for 6 hours, or overnight, to allow the fat to rise to the top and the debris to sink to the bottom. Remove the fat before using (and discard the debris at the bottom of the bowl). Divide into 1-cup (250-ml) quantities and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

Concentrated Pork Stock

If your freezer space is