Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [31]
Somewhat more recently, bones were employed to make type of a lace. Called bone lace, it probably originated in sixteenth-century Flanders. Made by hand, it is crafted from numerous linen threads tied to bone bobbins.
Orange-Campari–Braised Pork Shoulder
Campari mixed with orange juice is one of my favorite drinks, so when I was looking for another flavor to add with the orange juice to this pork shoulder recipe, Campari was the natural choice. With its slight bitterness, herbal overtones, and bright red color, it enhances both the taste and color of the sauce.
Pork shoulders come in different shapes and sizes. Make sure the one you buy will fit into your pot with enough room for the celeriac.
1 bone-in pork shoulder roast, about 4½ pounds (2 kg), skin removed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 oranges
½ cup (125 ml) Campari
3 thyme sprigs
2 garlic cloves
1 celeriac (celery root)
2 teaspoons arrowroot
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Pat the pork dry and season well with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven or flameproof casserole, heat the olive oil. Brown the pork on all sides, starting with the fat side. Transfer the pork to a plate and discard the fat from the pot; set the pot aside.
2. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the zest in long strips from 1 orange. Halve the oranges and squeeze 1 cup (250 ml) juice from them. (You should have 1 orange half left; keep it so you can add its juice at the end of cooking.) Pour the juice into the pot and add the Campari, then add the zest, thyme, and garlic. Bring to a boil, deglazing the pot by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom.
3. Add the pork to the pot and cover with a damp piece of parchment paper and then the lid. Braise in the oven for 1 hour. Turn the pork over and braise for another 30 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, peel the celeriac and cut it into 2-inch (5-cm) chunks; keeping them in acidulated flemón) water until ready to use.
5. Add the celeriac to the pork and cook for 30 minutes. Turn the pork and celeriac and braise for another hour, or until both the pork and celeriac are cooked. The pork should register 160°F (71°C) on an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the roast.
6. Transfer the meat and celeriac to a warmed serving platter and let the pork rest, loosely covered with aluminum foil, for 15 minutes.
7. Meanwhile, strain the sauce (set the pot aside), through a sieve into a glass measuring cup and let stand, briefly, then skim off the fat. Pour the sauce back into the pot, bring to a boil, and boil hard until it is reduced to about ¼ cup (175 ml). Squeeze 2 tablespoons juice from the reserved the orange half, and mix the arrowroot with the orange juice.
8. Stir any juices from the pork into the sauce, then whisk in the arrowroot mixture and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and check the seasoning. Carve the pork and serve with sauce.
* * *
Other Names for Pork Shoulder
The name Boston butt comes from the city of Boston, where this was a common cut. The term butt refers to the barrels or casks in which the pork was shipped. Picnic shoulder is a reference to the popularity of this cut when smoked. It made a small, cheaper ham that was easily transported and popular with picnickers early in the twentieth century.
* * *
Rack of Pork with Coffee Sauce
Rack of pork (also called a bone-in loin of pork) can simply be roasted with a rub of herbs and a coating of mustard, but it also benefits from brining it beforehand. I had seen several recipes for veal with coffee sauce and thought that it would complement pork even better. The coffee gives a subtle undertone to the meat and depth and edge to the sauce. Use a full-flavored coffee, but not espresso, which is too strong and can be bitter. The sauce could also be served with panfried pork chops or pot-roasted