Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [43]
Metacarpal bones of pig and sheep with a hole drilled in the center have been recovered from many archaeological sites but their use is not as clear-cut. Some speculated that these bones were used as toggles to fasten clothing, but more recent research has convinced many scholars that they were “buzz bones”: the bone was attached to a twisted cord and spun, causing it to make a humming or buzzing noise.
Bones don’t just make music or other sounds, they are celebrated in many songs. The most famous bone song is the African American spiritual “Dem Bones, Dem Bones, Dem Dry Bones.” With its origins in the book of Ezekiel, the song is about resurrection; it tells of the power of God and teaches basic human anatomy at the same time. Then there is the jazz classic “Saving the Bones for Henry Jones.” Written by Danny Baker and Vernon Lee, it was recorded by Nat King Cole and Johnny Mercer. Henry Jones doesn’t eat meat, but he’s no vegetarian. The clever Mr. Jones prefers bones: “We’ll save the bones for Henry Jones ‘cause Henry don’t eat no meat.”
Lamb
Bones have never deterred lamb lovers, and rack and leg of lamb are perennial favorites. The problem is that lamb lovers are the minority in North America. Many people are scared away from lamb by misconceptions about its taste and smell. Why is this meat so popular worldwide but unloved in North America?
Generally, lambs are between three months and a year old (to be called lamb, the animal must be slaughtered before its first birthday). In North America, the lamb is often at the older end of this range. As lamb ages, its meat becomes more robust in taste, and it develops a distinctive smell. The most assertively flavored meat is mutton, which comes from animals over a year old, but it is not readily available. The best lamb is under six months old because its meat is tender and mild.
The animal’s diet is also a major influence on its flavor. Lambs that graze on herbs or salt grasses produce a delicious meat infused with the aromas of these herbs. The mildest of all lamb is less than three months old and has been fed entirely on milk. The other main factor affecting lamb is its source. While smaller lambs are usually younger, and therefore milder, that is not always the case with imported lamb, which can be small but more highly flavored.
As there is such a wide choice in the lamb available, the best place to buy it is at a good butcher’s, where he will know the age, source, and origin of the meat and be able to advise you. Whatever the lamb’s provenance, you should look for finely grained meat that is pale to dark pink in color. The layer of fat should be smooth and white. Unlike other animal fats, lamb fat is not very tasty and can be quite unpleasant cold, so buy well-trimmed cuts. Lamb racks and chops do not need marbling to be tender—just a feathering of fat through the meat is sufficient. Braising cuts, such as shoulder chops and shanks, consist of several muscles and have seams of fat running through them that keep the meat moist and succulent during cooking.
To make no bones about it is to openly admit something without hesitation.
The best news for the cook is that because lamb is a small animal, it often arrives whole at the butcher, which means there is a wide choice of cuts on the bone and that less-common cuts are easier to obtain. Be adventurous and think beyond legs, racks, and chops. Lamb shoulder can be tender enough to roast, making a great alternative to leg. Lamb shanks are more familiar, owing to their popularity on restaurant menus, but what about the breast ribs and neck? These cuts are full of flavor and simple to cook. Then there are the bones themselves. Lamb stock makes great soups and will add depth and flavor to any lamb dish or sauce.
Boneset is a plant with white flowers that is used medicinally while a bone setter