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Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [52]

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how often I ate them as a child—crumbed cutlets, my mother called them. But they were delicious. I make this for two, but if you are prepared to deal with two frying pans at once, you can easily double the recipe.

3 leeks, trimmed

Kosher salt

6 lamb rib chops, 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, frenched and trimmed

¼ cup (30 g) flour Freshly ground black pepper

1 egg

1 tablespoon milk

2 lemons

1 tablespoon thyme leaves, chopped

½ cup (40 g) fresh bread crumbs

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter

1 teaspoon sugar

1. Split the leeks lengthwise in half and rinse well. Tie the leek halves together with string. Cook them in simmering salted water for 8 to 10 minutes, or until tender. Remove the leeks and drain on paper towels. When they are cool, remove the string.

2. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Season the flour with salt and pepper. Whisk the egg with the milk in a shallow bowl. Grate the zest from 1 lemon (keep the lemon for juice) and stir the zest and thyme leaves into the bread crumbs. Dredge the chops in the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess, then dip them in the egg mixture, and, finally, coat them in the seasoned bread crumbs.

3. Place a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and 1 tablespoon (15 g) of the butter. When the butter begins to foam, add the chops and cook for 2 minutes on each side. Lower the heat and cook for another 2 minutes on each side or until medium rare. Transfer the chops to a ovenproof plate, loosely cover with aluminum foil, and then place in the oven.

4. Wipe out the frying pan and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon (15 g) butter. Sprinkle in the sugar, then add the leeks cut side down. Cook over medium heat until the leeks caramelize slightly and are heated through. Halve the zested lemon, and add a squeeze of juice to the pan. Remove from the heat.

5. Cut the remaining lemon into wedges. Place 3 leek halves on each plate, top with the chops, and serve with lemon wedges.


Lamb Ribs

Lamb ribs are delicious but, a word of warning—no matter how much you trim them, there will always be fat. As well as the coating fat, there is a layer of fat between the meat and the bone. The amount of fat varies with the animal and your butcher. Eat these ribs hot out of the oven or straight off the grill, and be prepared to eat around the fat. Don’t be tempted to cook them ahead. It is better to glaze the hot ribs straight out of the oven, to keep the lamb fat warm.

If the ribs you buy are not well trimmed, it’s simple to do yourself. Start at the thick end of the ribs, and pull the skin and fat back as you use a sharp knife to separate the fat from the meat. At the wide end of the ribs, there will also be a wad of fat under the top layer of meat. Pull the meat back to expose this fat and cut out as much as you can. Turn the ribs over and trim off any visible fat, then pierce the thin opaque membrane covering the bones and pull it off.

4 racks lamb ribs, about 1 pound (450 g) each before trimming

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mustard Oregano Glaze or Spiced Yogurt Glaze (recipes follow)

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Season the ribs with salt and pepper, then place them on racks in two large roasting pans. Add enough water to cover the bottom of each pan, then cover the pans with aluminum foil.

2. Cook the ribs for 1½ hours, checking 2 to 3 times to make sure there is always some water in the bottom of each pan. Remove the ribs from oven, and increase the temperature to 450°F (230°C). (You can also glaze them on a hot grill or under the broiler.)

3. Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil and put the ribs on it, meat side up. Baste with some of the glaze and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, basting 3 to 4 times with the glaze, until the ribs are browned and glazed.

4. Using a chef’s knife, cut the ribs into individual pieces. Serve with the remaining glaze for dipping.


οMustard Oregano Glaze

{MAKES 1 CUP (250 ML)} This is a recipe where dried herbs are actually preferable to fresh

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