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4. Cut the soaked morels lengthwise in half or quarters, depending on their size. Add to the cream mixture, along with the chicken thighs, and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes, turning the thighs halfway through.

5. Meanwhile, clean the fresh morels and cut them lengthwise in half or into quarters, depending on their size. (If using cremini, thickly slice them.) Add the mushrooms to the pan, cover, and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked. The sauce should just coat the chicken, so check during the last 5 minutes of cooking and uncover the pan if the sauce is still too liquid.

6. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Chicken with Riesling

While coq au vin, made with chicken and red wine, is well known and delicious, chicken and white wine are also a perfect match. A famous chicken dish was cooked for Napoleon’s supper after he defeated the Austrians at the battle of Marengo in northern Italy. His chef supposedly whipped it up from the meager leftovers, which included chicken, white wine, and mushrooms. As I’m not on a battlefield, I have more choices. I add tomatoes and use a dry Riesling, but any dry white wine will work. You can use legs, as here, thighs, or a chicken cut into serving portions. If you can’t find small button mushrooms, quarter larger ones.

3 pounds (1.35 kg) chicken drumsticks (about 10)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter

2 shallots, finely chopped

2 tablespoons Cognac

1 cup (250 ml) dry Riesling

6 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced

8 ounces (225 g) small button mushrooms, trimmed

2 tarragon sprigs

¼ cup (60 ml) heavy (35%) whipping cream

2 tablespoons chopped tarragon

1. Pat the chicken dry and season with salt and pepper. Heat the oil and butter in a large frying pan with a lid or a Dutch oven over medium heat. Brown the chicken in 2 batches, 5 to 7 minutes per batch. Transfer the browned pieces to a plate. Discard all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from the pan. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Pour in the Cognac, then half the wine, and deglaze the pan by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the remaining wine, the tomatoes, and mushrooms and bring to a boil.

2. Lower the heat and add the browned chicken, with any juices, the tarragon sprigs, and ‘A teaspoon salt. Cover and simmer for about 20 minutes, turning the chicken once, until cooked through. Transfer the chicken to a plate.

3. Tip the pan and skim any fat off the sauce. Bring to a boil and boil uncovered, for 5 minutes to reduce. Stir in the cream and boil for 3 minutes, or until the sauce thickens slightly. Return the chicken legs to the pan and reheat gently over low heat, turning to coat with the sauce. Check the seasoning, sprinkle with the chopped tarragon, and serve.

Coconut Chicken Curry

The advantage of cooking all chicken thighs, or legs, unlike a cut-up chicken, is that they are done all at the same time. This recipe is in no way authentically Thai, but it is tasty and quick. You can add diced tomato, peas, diced potatoes, or sliced green beans instead of or as well as the red pepper. I must admit that I sometimes make this recipe to use up stray vegetables, but don’t overdo it. I like to scatter the finished dish with shredded Thai basil, but any basil, coriander, or even parsley, will do.

8 bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed

1 teaspoon turmeric

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon Thai red (or green) curry paste

One 13.5-ounce (400-ml) can coconut milk

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

2 teaspoons sugar

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced

Kosher salt

A handful shredded basil leaves, preferably Thai, for garnish

1 lime, cut into wedges

1. Pat the chicken thighs dry and remove any excess fat. Sprinkle with the turmeric.

2. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat and brown the chicken thighs on both sides.