Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [79]
A boneshaker was a type of early bicycle without rubber tires. Now, it can refer to an uncomfortable or an amusement park ride. After a boneshaker ride you might need a boneshaker cocktail. It is made with 3 ounces (90 ml) over proof rum, 1 ounce (30 ml) vodka, and 1 ounce (30 ml) clamato juice shaken over ice.
Skate and rays are primitive members of this family They do not have bones per se but rather a skeleton of flexible, semitransparent cartilage. Usually only their flaps or wings, which contain the most meat, are sold; they are rarely seen whole in the market. A skate wing is a wedge-shaped portion of cartilage sandwiched between two tapering pieces of flesh.
Fish bones must be eaten quite
bare and clean in the mouth
and removed one at a time
between finger and thumb.
—EMILY POST, ETIQUETTE IN SOCIETY [] 922)
Exceptions
The one exception is the monkfish. Whether for aesthetics or practicality, or both, the monkfish’s unattractive head—which totals half of its body weight—is commonly removed when it is caught. All that arrives at the fish market is its tail-like body, containing one long bone, or spinal column. This single bone makes monkfish simple to cook and even simpler to eat. If you do chance upon it with its head, ignore its looks and grab it for your stockpot.
“What’s bred in the bone will not go out of the flesh.”
—DANIEL DEFOE. ROBINSON CRUSOE (17191
Something else you won’t see whole is a frog, as only the hind legs are eaten. Frogs are amphibians, not fish, but I am allowing them to leap into this chapter anyway. Their legs are sold in pairs and each leg has two small bones, like a small bird leg.
While there are hundreds of fish, the focus here is on recipes using fish on the bone and bone-in fish cuts.
Fish Stock
The choice of bones is the first and most important step in making fish stock. Not all fish bones are equal in the stockpot. Flatfish bones are by far the best, as they contain more gelatin, which will give the stock body and viscosity. A stock made entirely from these bones will set solid when it is cold. All flatfish bones, along with their heads, tails, skin, and any trimmings, can go into your stockpot. All these bits boost the taste; just remember to remove the gills, which would make the stock bitter.
As there are fewer flatfish than round fish, though, their bones are harder to obtain. Seize them when you can and ferret them away in the freezer until you have enough, or make up the difference with round fish bones. How can you tell if the bones of a particular round fish belong in your stockpot? If the fish is white and mild tasting, such as whiting, haddock, or bass, for example, it is just fine. Avoid the bones of any dark, oily, strong-tasting or fatty fish, like mackerel, herring, salmon, bluefish, sardines, and smelt, as they would make your stock strong and oily.
Unlike other stocks, fish stock requires a mere thirty minutes of simmering. The whole process, from soaking the bones to the final straining, shouldn’t take much more than an hour. As fish bones yield their essence quickly, though, you must pay attention. Don’t leave your fish stock unattended on the back of the stove; if you cook it too long, it can turn bitter.
The recipe can easily be doubled.
2¼ pounds (1 kg) fish bones, preferably from flatfish, heads (gills removed), tails, and skin
3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 onion, diced
1 leek, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 carrot, peeled and sliced
1 celery stalk, sliced
¾ cup (175 ml) dry white wine
3 flat-leaf parsley stems
2 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
6 black peppercorns
Kosher salt, optional
1. Rinse the bones and assorted fish parts well, under cold running water. Break or chop them into 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) pieces (ask the fishmonger to do this, or use kitchen shears). Place the fish bones (and parts) in a large bowl of ice water and leave to soak for 15 minutes. This will leach out any blood from the bones.
2. Heat the oil in a stockpot over medium heat, then add the vegetables and let them sweat (this