Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [87]
2. Preheat the grill to high. Rinse and pat dry the sardines and season with salt and pepper and brush with the olive oil.
3. Clean the grill well then brush it lightly with vegetable oil. Place the fish on the grill over high heat for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, or until cooked. Serve hot with the gooseberry sauce. (The sauce can be served hot or at room temperature.)
Variation: Rhubarb Sauce
ο If you can’t find gooseberries, replace them with an equal amount of trimmed rhubarb. Cut the rinsed rhubarb stalks into ½-inch (1-cm) dice, and use only 1 teaspoon of sugar.
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Grilling or Broiling Fish
Grilling fish works if your grill is clean, lightly oiled, and preheated to high before you start. Lower the heat to medium to cook medium to larger fish and be aware that the fish will almost always stick a little no matter what—a fish basket will help solve this. If grilling over charcoal, move your grill rack away from the heat. Broiling fish is simpler and you have more control. Do remember to preheat your broiler. Have the fish cleaned and scaled (mackerel have no scales). Larger fish must be scored to allow the heat to penetrate inside the fish so it cooks more evenly. Make shallow cuts about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart into the flesh of the fish, 3 to 4 per side. Lightly season your fish with salt and pepper then drizzle with olive oil.
To check if the fish is cooked, look inside the fish or insert a small knife into the thickest part of the fish. Fish can overcook easily so test before you think it is done; the fish should be opaque at the bone.
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FISH KNIVES
There have always been knives to prepare fish, but special knives to eat them are a more recent invention. Fish knives, along with specific knives for cheese and fruit, began appearing in the seventeenth century. The fish knife is unique in that it doesn’t cut: its form is that of an elongated oval with a blunt decorated edge, since cooked fish doesn’t require cutting. The fish is just lifted from the bone, and the large surface area of the knife makes this easier. Then you could put this knife, with the piece of fish, directly into your mouth without fear of cutting yourself. These knives became very popular in Victorian and Edwardian times, made from silver so that they didn’t affect the taste of the fish.
Grilled Fish with Yellow Tomato Vinaigrette
Fish like snapper, bream, bass, and trout are good on the grill. Simple is best. You can vary the herbs, or use lime instead of lemon. If the fish is fresh, you can’t go wrong. Grilled fresh fish needs little more than herbs and seasoning, but if you want to guild the lily try this sauce. It is especially good when made with a yellow tomatoes, as it is less acid.
4 whole fish (see headnote), about 1 pound (450 g) each, cleaned
1 lemon, sliced
4 large fennel fronds
4 large rosemary sprigs
4 large flat-leaf parsley sprigs
4 large thyme sprigs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup (60 ml) plus 3 tablespoons olive oil
Vegetable oil, for oiling the grill
1 medium yellow tomato, cored and diced
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1. Preheat the grill to high. Score the fish by making 3 to 4 shallow cuts, ¼ inch (5 mm) deep and 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart, into each side. Place the lemon slices inside each fish, then divide the herbs among them. Skewer together the two flaps of each fish, unless using a grill basket. Season the fish with salt and pepper then brush lightly with 3 tablespoons olive oil.
2. Clean the grill well, then brush it lightly with vegetable oil. Place the fish on the grill, reduce the heat to medium, and grill, turning once, for a total of 10 to 12 minutes, or until just cooked.
3. While the fish is cooking, heat the ¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil in a small saucepan. Add the tomato and bring to a boil, reduce the heat and then simmer for 2