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By Root 464 0

as a live grouper was taken from the tank, killed, prepared for the steamer, and on the table in less than twenty minutes. Here’s what I learned: Start with the freshest fish you can, and then follow this simple recipe. My steamer holds only a pound (450 g) of fish, so I serve it as part of a multicourse meal for four people. It also makes a special meal when you find yourself dining alone. I present the cooked fish on a bed of watercress. The heat from the fish and hot sauce cooks the watercress, which provides a peppery contrast to the sweet fish.

1 whole grouper or bass, about 1 pound (450 g), cleaned

3 green onions, trimmed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese cooking wine (Shao Xing) or dry sherry

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons julienned fresh ginger

1 bunch watercress, coarse stems removed

1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar

1. Score the fish by making 3 to 4 shallow cuts, ¼ inch (5 mm) deep and 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart, in each side. Place it on a heatproof plate that will fit in your steamer.

2. Slice 2 green onions into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths. In a small bowl, mix 1 tablespoon of the oil, 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce, the wine, and a pinch of the sugar. Pour over the fish and turn it so it is well coated with the mixture. Scatter the sliced green onions and 1 tablespoon of the ginger on top.

3. Place the plate in the steamer basket or rack, then place it over boiling water in a large pot or wok, cover, and steam for 15 to 20 minutes, until the fish is cooked. The flesh will be opaque at the bone.

4. Meanwhile, line a serving platter with the watercress. Cut the remaining green onion into ‘X-inch (i-cm) lengths. Using a large spatula, transfer the fish to the platter, leaving behind the cooking juices; discard them. Scatter the sliced green onion over the fish.

5. Put the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, sugar, ginger, and vinegar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour over the fish and watercress, and serve immediately.

TIP When using a Chinese bamboo or metal steamer, the plate for the fish should be 1 inch (2.5 cm) smaller than the diameter of the steamer; this allows the steam to circulate.

Panfried Whole Sole

You will need a fish per person and they must fit snugly together in a large frying pan or in two smaller pans. The fish is cooked in butter mixed with oil, so that the temperature of the butter can be increased without it burning.

This classic French way of cooking is called à la meunière, which, literally translated, means in the style of the miller’s wife, a reference to the flour used to dredge the fish before cooking it. Sole is the traditional fish for this method, but small flounder, fluke, and even round fish like trout work well.

2 whole sole or flounder, about 1 pound (450 g) each, cleaned and skinned

2 tablespoons flour

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter

1 lemon, peeled and cut into segments (see page 191)

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1. Whether you leave the heads on the fish will depend on your frying pan (or you). If it is large enough to hold the whole fish, leave them on. Season the flour with salt and pepper, and dredge the fish in the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess.

2. In a frying pan large enough to hold both fish, or in two smaller pans, heat the oil over mediumhigh heat then add half of the butter. When the butter sizzles, add the fish and cook for 4 minutes. The fish will be golden brown by this time; turn them over and cook for another 4 minutes, or until the fish are cooked through. Check by inserting a knife into the center of the fish to make sure the flesh is opaque.

3. Transfer the fish to warmed dinner plates and keep warm, loosely covered with aluminum foil. Wipe out the pan, and add the remaining butter, the lemon segments, and parsley. Place over medium heat and cook until the butter begins to foam. Stir the sauce to mix, then pour over the fish and serve immediately

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