Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [96]
The muscles in this part of the body do the least work, so it has the most tender meat. The rack of venison is the most popular cut from this section. Have your butcher remove the chine bone, so that it will be easy to carve, and french the bones (see page 108) for presentation. The whole rack is ideal for roasting, or it can be cut into thick individual rib chops for sautéing or grilling.
“To cut to the bone” describes removing any frills or excess, and to be left with only the bare minimum.
Lord Timon’s mad. I feel’t upon my bones.
—WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE, TIMON OF ATHENS.
Act III. Scene VI
Lower down in this section are the ribs that form the animal’s chest. These breast ribs are cut into strips 1½ to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm) wide. They have a coating of fat and are perfect for braising like beef short ribs.
Farther toward the leg is the loin. Here the bone splits the meat in two pieces, the loin and the tenderloin. The loin is commonly cut into chops or boned. As with lamb, if this piece is kept whole and not split through the backbone, you have a saddle of venison, an impressive roast that is popular in Europe.
I seem to hear it, muster Gashford in my very bones.
—CHARLES DICKENS. BARNABY RUDGE
The Back End
Except on large legs, the shank is usually left attached to the leg. The leg is sold whole, and like of leg lamb, it is excellent roasted. On larger animals, the leg may cut into two smaller roasts. The sirloin end, closer to the middle, has a higher portion of meat to bone, but the shank end is easier to carve. When buying a whole leg (or haunch), make sure your butcher removes the pelvic bone.
There is a common warning to tardy dinner guests that is quoted worldwide: Those who come late for dinner will find only the bones, or for the latecomer the bones.
The Extremities
Venison shanks may come from either the back or front legs. They are sold whole or cut into thick crosswise pieces called venison osso buco. Those from larger animals resemble veal osso buco, but the shanks from small deer can be so small it is better to cook them whole.
Most deer have a small tail, but it is discarded when they are butchered. They have a long neck, which is cut into pieces. These pieces from smaller deer have a similar meat-to-bone ratio as oxtail, and they are perfect for braising. On larger animals, the bone is too dominant, so the neck is cut into smaller pieces to be used for stock
For some reason there seem to be hundreds of bones in our garden. Some of them are very old—maybe some two hundred and fifty years. The farmers in those days were often butchers as well.
—HENRY MOORE
Wild Boar
Wild boar sounds mythic, but it’s simply a wild pig. It’s butchered like a pig, but the cuts are smaller. Leg of wild boar is the most commonly available cut and is excellent roasted. Depending on your supplier, it will come with or without skin. Boar skin makes delicious crackling, so I always request that it be left on. Wild boar legs are cured to make excellent hams.
Ne pas faire de vieux os is a French expression describing someone who hasn’t long to live.
My supplier also carries shoulder, rib and loin chops, and spareribs. Spareribs are an ideal way to try this meat without committing yourself to a whole roast. I have also bought wild boar’s feet and tails. Although considerably smaller than pig’s, they were delicious. Cook them like pig’s feet (page 82) and tails (page 86). Wild boar can be substituted for pork in most recipes. Unlike other game, all the wild boar I have cooked has come with a good coating of fat.
“Lying was in his very bones,” describes a compulsive liar.
Rabbit and Hare
The most readily available small game is the domesticated, or hutch, rabbit. Rabbits are skinned and have no protective layer of fat like chicken and their meat is pale, lean, and mild flavored. They are commonly sold whole, often with the head still attached. Don’t be put off by it—have the butcher remove the head and then put it in your stockpot.
“In flesh and bone” means to be physically present.
A bonehead is a