Bottega - Michael Chiarello [19]
Mission accomplished. This melding of sexy flavors got me exactly the attention I wanted at the table. It’s impossible to eat these bundles politely. You have to open wide, it’s messy, it’s fantastic. I probably should just stop while I’m ahead.
Peanut oil, canola oil, or corn oil for deep-frying
1½ pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/3-inch-thick lengthwise slices and then into 1/3-inch-wide sticks (you can also use a good-quality frozen fry, such as Alexia’s)
1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon truffle oil
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Sea salt, preferably gray salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 thin prosciutto slices
6 ripe figs (optional)
In a large, heavy pot, heat 3 inches of oil over high heat until it registers 375°F on a deep-fat thermometer. In batches, fry the potatoes until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Using a wire skimmer or tongs, transfer the potatoes to paper towels to drain.
In a heat-proof bowl, toss the hot fries with the parsley and truffle oil. Add the Parmesan and toss once more, taste, and season with salt and pepper.
Spread a slice of prosciutto on a work surface. Gather up a small bundle of fries as if you’re gathering pencils to put in a jar. Place the fries on the prosciutto and gently wrap. Tear each fig (if using) into four sections (don’t wuss out and use a knife). Plate the bundles with the torn figs and serve while warm. Don’t put any utensils on the table; this is for fingers and mouths only. Napkins are a good idea.
SIMPLE VARIATION: The truffle fries alone, without the prosciutto wrap, are still outstanding. You can change the seasoning: use just herbs, or just cheese, or try flavored oils such as Basil Oil with dried Jack cheese, Smoky Paprika Oil with manchego cheese, orange oil with sage. This is a good place to experiment with flavor combinations because fries are inexpensive and easy to make.
Chapter 3
Before the Meal
Antipasti
The strength of any Italian restaurant lies in its antipasto. For a chef, antipasto is the chance to wow a guest before the wine kicks in and everything gets slightly blurry. At Bottega, we concentrate on making this the dish that blows the lid off the meal. When the server brings out a polenta “under glass,” or our warm pecorino cheese budino, or our famous fritto misto, everybody at the table sits forward, eager to taste. That’s how it should be with this course.
We also introduce the idea of whimsy in this chapter. Serving polenta “under glass” is an example. Used judiciously, these small, unexpected touches can add their own flavor to the experience.
I lean toward serving a number of antipasti, family style. At home, I serve them in two waves, bringing out the simpler antipasti, then another round of more complicated flavors.
Almost all of our antipasti can serve as one-course suppers or can morph into an entrée for two or four people. Make pasta for the polpettini and you have a great dinner. Add a plate of sliced tomatoes to the “Angry” Ahi Tuna Crudo and you have a satisfying luncheon dish.
This chapter shares my fritto misto technique. Once you learn this method, you can make the best calamari (tender inside and crisp on the outside), as well as onions or even a crispy blue cheese–stuffed olive for your martini. People shy away from deep-frying, but this is still a fast, easy way to make a good bit of fish, soft-shell crab, or potato taste even better. I don’t eat fritto every day (nobody should!), but having a great fritto misto on occasion makes me very happy.
Green Eggs and Ham
Burrata Three Ways
Torn Figs and Burrata
Burrata Caprese with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil Oil, and Balsamic “Caviar”
Roasted Butternut Squash and Mushrooms with Burrata
“Angry” Ahi Tuna Crudo
Swordfish Polpettini (Swordfish Meatballs with Fisherman’s Sauce)
Budini di Pecorino Fulvi with Oven-Roasted Rapini
Grilled Lamb Spiedini Agrodolce
Ancient-Grain Polenta “Under Glass” with Mushrooms and Balsamic Sauce
Fritto Misto di