Bottega - Michael Chiarello [22]
When I first set out to make the balsamic “caviar,” I used medical equipment to get pearls the right size, but we’ve figured out an easier technique. I think of this as how your nonna would make these pearls if she were into molecular gastronomy. The pearls are easier than you’d expect, but if you’d rather not make the caviar, reduce some balsamic vinegar to a syrup and drizzle that over your caprese instead.
Wine Pairing: Falanghina, a white wine from Campania
10 to 12 heirloom tomatoes, preferably 4 large and 6 small, at peak of season (about 2 pounds)
12 ounces (3 balls) burrata
6 tablespoons Basil Oil
Sea salt, preferably gray salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons Balsamic “Caviar”
Cut the large tomatoes into 1/2-inch-thick slices and then cut the slices in half. Cut the smaller tomatoes into wedges and arrange on the plates so each serving shows a variety of colors and sizes, half-slices and wedges. Tear each burrata ball in half and place one half on each plate. Drizzle the tomatoes with basil oil and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle a good amount of the “caviar” on each salad and serve.
Balsamic “Caviar”
MAKES 2 CUPS
You can buy a caviar maker shown below from Chef Rubber (see Resources) to help form the small pearls. If you don’t have the caviar maker, use a squeeze bottle.
Gold gelatin sheets (also called leaves) are the key here; don’t use the silver or bronze, because they bloom differently.
You can try various types of vinegar with this recipe. I’ve had great success with red wine vinegar and sherry vinegar. I’ve also made this from a good Cabernet, which is show-stopping.
You need a very light, neutral oil here that won’t add flavor to the pearls. Grapeseed oil is best, but if you don’t have that use canola oil. You can use any tall pitcher to chill the oil, but we find it’s easiest to use a clean, empty half-gallon milk container. When you’re done making the pearls, you can save the oil for another use.
6 cups grapeseed or canola oil
2 cups balsamic vinegar, sherry vinegar, or red wine vinegar
15 gold gelatin sheets (see Resources)
3 to 5 cups ice water
Pour the oil into a clean, empty, half-gallon milk carton. Put it in the freezer for about 1 hour. The oil will turn cloudy and almost become icy.
Bring the vinegar to a boil in a medium sauce-pan over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 minute. Turn off the heat.
Place the gelatin sheets in a stainless-steel roasting pan or a nonreactive rimmed baking sheet. Pour enough ice water over them just to cover. Let the sheets soften for about 5 minutes. Lift the gelatin from the water and squeeze out any water that you can. Discard the water left in the pan. Add the softened gelatin to the warm vinegar. Whisk gently over medium heat until the liquid returns to a boil, then remove from the heat. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve. Let stand for about 1 hour or until it’s about room temperature, but don’t let it turn solid. Don’t try to speed the cooling with an ice bath. Just let the mixture cool naturally in a cool place.
If you have a caviar maker, place it in the pan with the vinegar mixture. Remove the cold oil from the freezer, pour the vinegar mixture into the caviar maker, and follow the instructions in the Chef’s Note, below.
If using a squeeze bottle, make sure it has a narrow tip. Fill with the vinegar mixture and let it rest in the freezer for at least 2 minutes. Holding the squeeze bottle over the cold oil, very gently squeeze out one bead at a time, moving the bottle so the drops fall apart from each other. Transfer the container of oil with the vinegar bubbles to the freezer for 2 minutes.
Using a large fine-mesh sieve, gently strain the little beads, and then transfer them carefully into a shallow dish. Cover and refrigerate immediately. The “caviar” should be used the same day it’s made.
CHEF’S NOTE: Our caviar maker is a device