Bottega - Michael Chiarello [34]
Grilling radicchio is a technique you have to nail. Soak the radicchio in ice water for at least 30 minutes to take out some of its bitterness. In Italy, bitterness is a flavor that is acknowledged and respected. Here in the States, we tend to shy away from anything bitter; soaking removes the bitterness without robbing the radicchio of its flavor. Keep the radicchio in a bowl of ice water in the refrigerator until you’re ready to grill. You’ll grill the radicchio until almost black outside but still cool inside—the contrast is fantastic. You can grill this indoors in a cast-iron pan, but it’s worth firing up your grill even in the dead of winter to get that smoky flavor. You’ll be tempted to overgrill the wedges, but resist the urge. One minute per side on a hot, hot grill is about all it takes.
Wine Pairing: Unoaked Chardonnay
PICKLED RED ONION
½ large red onion
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
½ pound unpeeled small fingerling potatoes
GRILLED RADICCHIO
3 heads radicchio, stems intact, cut into quarters
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing grill
2 tablespoons thinly sliced garlic (about 3 cloves)
6 minced anchovy fillets, preferably salt-packed anchovies soaked for 30 minutes, drained, and bones removed before mincing
2 teaspoons Calabrian chile paste, or ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (see Resources)
2 teaspoons chopped capers, preferably salt-packed capers rinsed and soaked for 30 minutes
¼ cup sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
3 cups Tuna Conserva
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar for drizzling
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish
FOR THE ONION: Quarter the onion, then cut into thin slices. Toss the onion slices with your fingers to break apart. Pour on the red wine vinegar, toss again, and let stand for at least 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes. This is a very quick pickling to just smooth away a little of the onion’s sharpness.
In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the potatoes until fork-tender, about 8 minutes. Drain the potatoes and cut them into quarters. Set aside.
FOR THE RADICCHIO: Soak the radicchio in ice water to cover for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Light a hot fire in a charcoal grill, preheat a gas grill to medium-high, or have ready a grill pan on the stove.
Heat a medium sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the garlic, reduce the heat to medium, and sauté until light brown, about 3 minutes. Add the anchovies and chile paste and let the anchovies melt, about 1 minute. Add the capers and sauté for another 30 seconds. Add the sherry vinegar and cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil while stirring. Add the parsley and let cool.
Gently squeeze the excess water from the radicchio quarters and drain on paper towels. Preheat a grill pan, if using, over high heat; brush the pan or the grill grids with oil. Use your fingers to push some of the dressing between the radicchio leaves while keeping the wedges intact. Grill the radicchio for about 1 minute on each side, or until charred. Remove from the heat and set aside.
This is not a composed salad but has a masculine edge to it, so don’t get too fussy with the plating. Slide a wedge of grilled radicchio onto each plate. Top with tuna conserva so it covers part of the radicchio wedge. Add the quartered potatoes and pickled onions to the conserva. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, a drizzle of red wine vinegar, and a light sprinkling of chopped parsley.
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