Bottega - Michael Chiarello [51]
The one thing that’s changed since those Chiarellos of old salt-packed their anchovies—today we feel a responsibility to become better stewards of the oceans and marine life. I’m a big fan of the Web site www.seafoodwatch.org, maintained by the inspirational Monterey Bay Aquarium. Please check it before purchasing fish. Because I cook fish every day, I have a good idea of what’s sustainable, but I still visit the site periodically to see what’s new on their list.
Grilled Swordfish “alla Barcaiola”
Halibut in Parchment with Grilled Artichokes and Fisherman’s Sauce
Salt-Roasted Branzino
Wood-Grilled Octopus “Under a Brick” with Olive Oil–Braised Potatoes
Adriatic Brodetto
“Angry” Prawns with White Bean Passatina
Seared Day-Boat Scallops, Chickpea Passatina, and Cauliflower Agrodolce
Grilled Swordfish “alla Barcaiola”
SERVES 6
This combination is one of my favorites: swordfish so thin it cooks almost as soon as it hits the grill, served with a polenta so good it doesn’t require any cheese. Finish with a briny caper- and anchovy-laden sauce and a fresh, bright celery salad to bring it all together.
Nick Ritchie, chef de cuisine at Bottega, worked in a restaurant near Salò, a beautiful town on the shores of Lago di Garda in Italy, and he brought back this sauce. A barcaiolo is a boatman, and thus the simple sauce can be made from pickled peppers, onions, and salt-packed capers that can stay on the boat, ready for the boatman’s cena (dinner) when the fishing is done.
Wine Pairing: Verdicchio
SALSA ALLA BARCAIOLA (SALÒ SAUCE)
1 cup whole pepperoncini, preferably Bruno’s wax peppers (see Resources), drained
½ cup cocktail onions packed in vinegar, drained (16 onions)
3 tablespoons capers, preferably salt-packed capers rinsed and soaked for 30 minutes
5 anchovies, preferably salt-packed anchovies soaked for 30 minutes and bones removed
1 garlic clove, peeled
1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Squeeze of fresh lemon juice
Sea salt, preferably gray salt, or kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
CELERY INSALATINA
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 cup thinly sliced celery
Olive oil for brushing
Six 6-ounce swordfish fillets, 3/4 to 1 inch thick
Sea salt, preferably gray salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 cups Ancient-Grain Polenta
Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill, preheat a gas grill to medium-high, or set out a grill pan.
FOR THE SAUCE: In a 6-quart pot over medium heat, combine the pepperoncini, cocktail onions, capers, anchovies, and garlic. Add just enough olive oil to cover, bring to a simmer, and cook gently for 10 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, and purée the mixture. Add the parsley and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
FOR THE INSALATINA: In a medium bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Add the parsley and celery and toss to mix. Set aside.
Brush the grill grids with olive oil and wipe with paper towels to ensure that the fish doesn’t stick. Or, heat a grill pan over high heat and oil the pan. Lightly brush the fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper on each side. Grill the fillets for 2 to 3 minutes on each side. The fish is done when you see its juices run white. Transfer to a platter.
Add about 3/4 cup of the polenta to one side of each warmed plate. Top with a grilled fish fillet and a few spoonfuls of the sauce. Place a small mound of insalatina beside it and serve.
Halibut in Parchment with Grilled Artichokes and Fisherman’s Sauce
SERVES 6
Folding parchment paper around fish is worth the extra effort for that moment when you unseal the bag at the table and the moist, tender flesh is revealed in a rush of fragrant steam. If you don’t want to bag the fish, keep it moist by cooking it on top of