Bottega - Michael Chiarello [54]
Pour on the remaining salt, pressing it in place with your hands so every bit of the fish is covered under a good salt layer. Place the 5 halved lemons in the pan around the fish. Drizzle olive oil over the salt and the lemons.
Roast for about 20 minutes, or until the internal thermometer or an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the fish registers 140°F. Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes: the bigger the fish, the longer the rest. Use this time to gather your friends around the fish, and pour a little more wine for everyone. When you’re ready, crack open the salt crust with a big spoon. Use the spoon to move some of the salt from the top of the fish, and transfer the fish to a carving board. With a sharp knife, slit the skin at the top of the fish from head to tail and gently peel away the skin. Maneuver under the fillet to get the spine, gently removing it using two spoons. With a large spoon, transfer the first serving of fish to a plate (it will be juicy). Put a half a roasted lemon on the plate with the fish, and move on to the next serving. Serve with more roasted lemons at the table. Enjoy.
Wood-Grilled Octopus “Under a Brick” with Olive Oil–Braised Potatoes
SERVES 4
This is a dish Bottega has become known for. It’s probably a rare night when you say, “I’m in the mood for octopus,” but once you get past the learning curve, this dish is worth every bit of effort. Fresh is always better, of course, but if frozen is the only octopus you can find, make sure your fishmonger slacks it properly, letting it thaw a good three days in a refrigerator to make sure the flesh stays firm (see Note).
You may want to stray beyond your usual grocery stores in the hunt for octopus. If you live near a Japanese or a Mexican neighborhood, my bet is either one will have a market where you can buy fresh octopus.
Wine Pairing: Greco
One 3- to 3½-pound octopus
½ cup Smoky Paprika Oil, or ½ cup olive oil mixed with ½ teaspoon pimentón de la Vera (smoked Spanish paprika)
2 tablespoons olive oil (see Chef’s Note)
OLIVE OIL–BRAISED POTATOES
2 unpeeled Idaho potatoes (about 1½ pounds), scrubbed and cut on the bias into 1-inch-thick pieces
½ teaspoon sea salt, preferably gray salt, or kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1 tablespoon minced garlic
PICKLED RED ONION
1 red onion, cut into paper-thin slices
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
½ tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
2 cups packed arugula or rucola (wild arugula) leaves
½ cup Salsa Verde, plus more for serving (optional)
Bring a large pot of water to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cut the head off the octopus, leaving enough of the pouch so the tentacles remain attached to each other. Cut open the head and pull out any hard bits, including the beak. Using a knife blade, scrape the inside of all loose matter.
Add the octopus to the pot of simmering water, resting a small colander on top of the octopus if necessary to keep it submerged. Reduce the heat to low and cook for at least 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the octopus sit in the poaching water for another 30 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a skewer. If it still feels slightly tough, cook for another 15 minutes and test again. Using tongs, transfer to a baking sheet and let cool to the touch. Rub the reddish-purple skin off with your fingers and discard. If you can’t get the skin off around the suction cups, use a small, sharp knife to cut away the suction cups and any remaining skin. Taste the smaller suction cups for sand; if they aren’t sandy, leave them on, as they add a nice texture to the dish. Cut the tentacles on the bias, 4 or 5 inches long. Cut the head into thin slices.
In a large bowl, combine the octopus and the paprika oil. Marinate for at least 1 hour at room temperature or in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Heat a large cast-iron pan or a grill pan over medium-high heat, add the olive oil, then