Bottega - Michael Chiarello [7]
Skimming stock is like trimming and weeding a garden. You’re taking out the imperfections and leaving pure, clear flavors.
Add the chicken, vegetables, and water to the pot first. Always use cold, fresh water, not hot water from the tap. Add the herbs and spices after the first few skimmings, so you won’t skim them off with the foam. This calls for a very large pot; you can halve the recipe if you like.
½ pound white mushrooms
2 pounds chicken necks
4 pounds chicken wings (cut each wing into 3 sections)
2 pounds chicken drumsticks
4 cups coarsely chopped yellow onions (about 4 large onions)
2 cups coarsely chopped celery (about 4 stalks)
2 cups peeled and coarsely chopped carrots (about 3 large carrots)
2 gallons cold water
1 cup packed coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup fresh thyme sprigs
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
12 lightly crushed juniper berries
6 bay leaves
In a large, heavy pot, crumble the mushrooms, using your hands, and add the chicken parts, all the vegetables, and the water. Over high heat, bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and bring the liquid to a simmer. Watch the heat; a low simmer gives you better flavor than boiling your stock.
Cook for about 20 minutes, occasionally skimming off the foam that rises to the top. Add the parsley, thyme, peppercorns, and juniper berries. Add the bay leaves, crumbling them into the pot. Continue to simmer for 41/2 hours.
Remove from the heat. Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a plate to cool. (Later, pull the chicken off the bone and reserve it for another use, such as chicken salad or chicken ravioli.) Strain the broth through a colander and then strain again through a fine-mesh sieve. Let cool completely.
Store in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months. If freezer space is tight, cook the broth to reduce it by about half and then thin with water as needed when you’re ready to use the stock.
CHEF’S NOTE: I don’t add salt to my broths and stocks for this reason: If I reduce a salted liquid significantly, it becomes too salty.
Vegetable Stock
MAKES ABOUT 5 QUARTS
At Bottega, we use this stock when we don’t want to overpower the flavor of a dish by using chicken or veal stock.
Some cooks believe that vegetable stock is a way to use up the veggies in the fridge that are past their prime. I don’t agree. I use beautiful, farm-fresh veggies for my vegetable stock every time. Don’t forget to cut vegetables on the bias: the greater surface area means that more of the veggie’s flavor infuses the liquid. And always begin with cold, fresh water for the best-tasting stock.
7 quarts cold water
4 cups coarsely chopped yellow onions (about 4 large onions)
2 cups split, rinsed, and coarsely chopped leeks (about 2 large leeks)
2 cups coarsely chopped celery (about 4 stalks)
2 cups peeled and coarsely chopped carrots (about 3 large carrots)
2 fresh Roma (plum) tomatoes, peeled, or 3 peeled whole tomatoes from a can (leave whole so juices don’t cloud stock)
2 cups coarsely chopped cored fennel (about 2 large bulbs)
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, with stems
1 fresh thyme sprig
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
In a large, heavy stockpot, combine the water, onions, leeks, celery, carrots, tomatoes, and fennel. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and cook at a low simmer for about 20 minutes, skimming the foam occasionally. Add the parsley, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaves and simmer for another 25 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the tomatoes and strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve. Keep stock in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Roasted Chicken Stock
MAKES