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Wine Pairing: Sangiovese

SPICE RUB

2 bay leaves, crumbled

1 teaspoon ground juniper berries

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ cup finely ground sea salt, preferably gray salt

¼ cup minced garlic

One 5-pound duck or 4 to 5 pounds duck legs

2 bay leaves

2 fresh thyme sprigs

3 cups duck fat (optional)

3 to 6 cups olive oil (see Chef’s Note), plus more if needed

FRUTTA DI MOSTARDA

3 cups sugar

½ cup water

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 shallot, minced

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1 serrano chile, seeded and minced

3 pears, peeled, cored, and diced

4 apples, peeled, cored, and diced

1 cup dried sour cherries

½ cup golden raisins

½ cup dry white wine

2 bay leaves

1 3/4cups Dijon mustard

Sea salt, preferably gray salt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil to crisp duck skin before serving

FOR THE SPICE RUB: Mix together the bay leaves, juniper berries, nutmeg, peppercorns, ground coriander, cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. Add the finely ground sea salt and garlic. Mix well to make a damp paste. Set aside.

Remove any giblets or neck bone from the duck. Trim the excess fat from the neck. Remove the wing tops (reserve for stock), but leave the drumstick part of the wing on the duck. Cut along either side of the backbone and press the duck flat.

Rub the spice blend inside the body and neck cavities and over the outside of the duck. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap, put in an airtight container, and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Wipe off both sides of the duck, rinse with cold water, and dry with paper towels to remove the spice rub.

Preheat the oven to 250°F. In a large, heavy pot, Dutch oven, or heavy casserole that fits the duck comfortably without too much space around it, place the duck as flat as it will go, breast-side up. Place the bay leaves and thyme on top of the duck and then cover with the duck fat (if using) and 3 cups olive oil (or with 6 cups olive oil). If the duck is not completely submerged, add more olive oil. Bake for 41/2 hours, or until the meat is so tender it’s falling off the bone. Remove from the oven and allow the duck to cool completely in the fat. When cool, put on a rack to drain.

FOR THE FRUTTA DI MOSTARDA: In a large, heavy, nonreactive pot, combine the sugar, water, and lemon juice. Cook over high heat until the sugar turns dark amber. Stir in the shallot, red pepper flakes, and chile, then quickly add all the fruit, the wine, and bay leaves. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook gently until the fruit is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for at least 10 minutes. Stir in the mustard and season with salt. Let cool to room temperature. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months, or hot-water process in canning jars to keep longer.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. In a large, ovenproof sauté pan, heat the extra-virgin olive oil until almost smoky. Add the duck, turning it so the skin becomes brown and crispy all the way around, then transfer the pan to the oven until duck is warm and skin is crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Serve portions of the duck with ramekins of the mostarda. Both of these are great either warm or at room temperature.

CHEF’S NOTE: Save the duck fat by straining it, then set it aside for sautéing potatoes or making frites or the next batch of confit.

Chapter 8

Side Dishes

Contorni

This chapter reveals the true heart of an Italian meal: the vegetables. Yes, you could always serve the usual starch beside your whole roasted fish or your shanks or your steaks, but this chapter lets you consider a few other options—cavolo nero, or black cabbage, in a spectacular five-onion braise, or Brussels sprouts, cooked in such a way that they make an entrance at your table.

Contorni force an Italian to remember that he’s Italian. Lamb shanks and duck confit and porterhouse steak—they’re all well and good