Bottega - Michael Chiarello [88]
In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until frothy and then gradually beat in the sugar until soft peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold one-third of the beaten whites at a time into the chocolate mixture.
Fill the prepared ring molds, coffee cups, or custard cups one-third full with batter. Place a chocolate tartufi into each mold or cup and spoon the remaining batter to fill the container two-thirds full. (Bake now, or refrigerate for up to 3 days.)
Bake for 13 to 15 minutes (18 to 28 minutes if the batter was refrigerated), or until the center of the cake is puffed and risen but not completely set. These are meant to be slightly soft and molten, so don’t overcook.
Pour the anglaise into a pitcher and set it on the table. If the cakes are in ring molds, remove the metal ring, serve each one with the paper collar still in place, and then “unveil” them at the table, removing the paper and pouring on the anglaise. If baked in coffee cups or custard cups, just pour on the anglaise. Add a few chunks of the croccante to serve.
CHEF’S NOTE: To toast and skin hazelnuts, spread the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in a preheated 375°F oven until lightly browned and fragrant, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and bundle in a clean dish towel, rubbing the nuts together to remove the skins. Discard the skins.
Three Tartufi (Chocolate Truffles)
I want the last bite that a guest has before leaving Bottega to be sensual and unusual, and these truffles are both. I generally steer away from odd flavor combinations, but while in Parma visiting a cheese producer, I first tasted dark chocolate with Parmesan. They brought out trays holding truffles like these, and I was stunned by how much I liked the two flavors together.
I worked with Bottega’s pastry chef, Michael Glissman, to come up with two other truffles that worked well with the first as a trio. This is a small but intense finale, served on antique bone china.
Wine Pairing: A Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon or whatever red wine you had with your meal
Balsamico Tartufi (Basil Truffles)
MAKES 2 DOZEN 11/2-INCH TRUFFLES
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, chopped
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
Pinch of kosher salt
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Grind of black pepper
3 egg yolks
¼ cup sifted powdered sugar for coating
¾ cup unsweetened cocoa powder for coating
In a medium saucepan, combine the cream and chopped basil. Simmer over medium-low heat for 5 to 7 minutes to reduce the cream while infusing it with basil flavor. (The reduction should measure 5 to 6 ounces when it’s finished.) Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for at least 1 hour. Strain the cream through a fine-mesh sieve and set aside. Discard the basil.
In a double boiler over barely simmering water, melt the chocolate and butter. Immediately add the salt and granulated sugar. Whisk the reduced infused cream into the chocolate, then whisk in the balsamic vinegar and pepper.
In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks until blended. Gradually whisk in just a few spoonfuls of the warm chocolate mixture. Gradually whisk in the remaining chocolate mixture until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or overnight.
Using a 3/4- to 1-ounce ice-cream scoop, a melon baller, or a teaspoon, scoop out the chocolate mix-ture and roll between your palms into balls about 1½ inches in diameter. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate again for 1 to 2 hours, until set and no longer tacky. Combine the powdered sugar and cocoa in a small bowl and stir with a whisk to blend. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Roll each truffle in the powdered sugar mixture so it’s thoroughly coated and then set it on the prepared pan. Slide the pan into the fridge and chill for at least 1 hour. Remove from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving.
Parmesan Tartufi (Parmesan