Caribbean (Fodor's, 2011) - Fodor's Travel Publications [24]
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JOST VAN DYKE
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Named after an early Dutch settler, Jost Van Dyke is a small island northwest of Tortola and is truly a place to get away from it all. Mountainous and lush, the 4-mi-long (6½-km-long) island—with fewer than 200 full-time residents—has one tiny resort, some rental houses and villas, a campground, a few shops, a handful of cars, and a single road. There are no banks or ATMs on the island, and many restaurants and shops accept only cash. It’s a good idea to buy groceries on St. Thomas or Tortola before arriving if you’re staying for a few days. Life definitely rolls along on “island time,” especially during the off-season from August to November, when finding a restaurant open for dinner can be a challenge. Water conservation is encouraged, as the source is rainwater collected in basementlike cisterns. Many lodgings will ask you to follow the Caribbean golden rule: “In the land of sun and fun, we never flush for number one.” Jost is one of the Caribbean’s most popular anchorages, and there are a disproportionately large number of informal bars and restaurants, which have helped earn Jost its reputation as the “party island” of the BVI.
BEACHES
Sandy Cay. | Map
Just offshore, the little islet known as Sandy Cay is a gleaming scimitar of white sand, with marvelous snorkeling.
White Bay. | Map | Photo
On the south shore, west of Great Harbour, this long stretch of white sand is especially popular with boaters who come ashore for a libation at one of the beach bars.
WHERE TO EAT
Restaurants on Jost Van Dyke are informal (some serve meals family-style at long tables) but charming. The island is a favorite charter-boat stop, and you’re bound to hear people exchanging stories about the previous night’s anchoring adventures. Most restaurants don’t take reservations (but for those that do, they are usually a requirement), and in all cases dress is casual.
Abe’s by the Sea.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Many sailors who cruise into this quiet bay come so they can dock right at this open-air eatery to enjoy the seafood, conch, lobster, and other fresh catches. Chicken, ribs, and a Wednesday night pig roast (in season) round out the menu, and affable owners Abe Coakley and his wife, Eunicy, add a pinch and dash of hospitality that makes a meal into a memorable evening. Wi-Fi access is available for those who want to surf the Web while supping. | Little Harbour VG1160 | 284/495–9329 | D, MC, V.
Ali Baba’s.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Lobster is the main attraction at this beach bar with a sandy floor, which is just some 20 feet from the sea. Grilled local fish, including swordfish, kingfish, and wahoo, are specialties and caught fresh daily. There’s also a pig roast here on Monday night in season. Beware: Ali Baba’s special rum punch is delicious but potent. Dinner reservations are required by 5 PM. | Great Harbour VG1160 | 284/495–9280 | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V.
Corsairs Beach Bar & Restaurant.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | On an island known for seafood, it’s the pizza that draws raves for lunch at this friendly beach bar. If pizza doesn’t appeal, then good Tex-Mex and Caribbean specialties are also on the menu at breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with selections ranging from a breakfast burrito to lobster quesadillas to tuna in a mango rum sauce. The bar is easily recognized by its signature pirate paraphernalia and a restored U.S. Army Jeep parked next to the steps-from-the-sea dining room. Live music, potent libations, and the only Jagermeister machine in the territory (it chills your shots to 28ºF) keep things moving from happy hour into the night. Even if you’re not hungry, this is a great hangout. | Great Harbour VG1160 | 284/495–9294 | www.corsairsbvi.com | MC, V.
Foxy’s Taboo.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | The freshly caught seafood keeps people coming back to the deck of this simple, wood-frame eatery that is built smack in the middle of