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By Root 200 0

water just a few feet from shore and see one coral formation after another, each shimmering with a rainbow of colorful fish. Many local captains are happy to take visitors out bonefishing. Such watery pleasures are complemented by ever-so-fine, ever-so-white sand (the northern and western shores have long stretches of the stuff) and the occasional beach bar (stop in for burgers, local lobster, or a frosty beer). The island’s population of about 180 lives primarily in a small south-side village called the Settlement, which has two grocery stores, a bakery, and a general store. There are no banks or ATMs on Anegada, and many restaurants and shops take only cash.

WHERE TO EAT

There are between 6 and 10 restaurants open at any one time, depending on the season and on whim. Check when you’re on the island.

Anegada Reef Hotel Restaurant.

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Seasoned yachters gather here nightly to share tales of the high seas. Dinner is by candlelight and always includes famous Anegada lobster, steaks, and succulent baby back ribs—all prepared on the large grill by the little open-air bar. The ferry dock is right next door, so expect a crowd shortly after it arrives. Dinner reservations are required by 4 PM. | Anegada Reef Hotel, Setting Point VG1140 | 284/495–8002 | Reservations essential | MC, V.

Big Bamboo.

$$$ | AMERICAN | Ice-cold beer, fruity drinks, burgers, fresh fish, barbecue chicken, conch, and crab cakes entice a steady stream of barefoot diners to this beach bar for lunch. Dinner is by request only. If your heart is set on lobster, be sure to call in the morning or day before to put in your request. | Loblolly Bay West VG1140 | 284/495–2019 | MC, V.

Cow Wreck Bar & Grill.

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Named for the cow bones that once washed up on shore, this wiggle-your-toes-in-the sand beachside eatery is a fun place to watch the antics of surfers and kite-boarders skidding across the bay. Tuck into conch fritters or a lobster salad sandwich for lunch or freshly grilled lobster for dinner. The homemade coconut pie is a winner. Plan to spend the day and snorkel before lunch and snooze in the hammock afterward. | Loblolly Bay East VG1140 | 284/495–8047 | www.cowwreckbeach.com | MC, V.

Neptune’s Treasure.

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | The owners, the Soares family, have lived on the island for more than half a century, and the Soares men catch, cook, and serve the seafood (lobster is a specialty, as is swordfish baked with a pearl onion sauce) at this casual bar and restaurant in the Neptune’s Treasure guesthouse. Vegetarian dishes are also available. The view is spectacular at sunset. | Between Pomato and Saltheap points VG1140 | 284/495–9439 | www.neptunestreasure.com | MC, V.

Pomato Point Restaurant.

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | This relaxed restaurant and bar sits on one of the best beaches on the island and is just a short walk from the Anegada Reef Hotel. Entrées include lobster, stewed conch, and freshly caught seafood. It’s open for lunch daily; call by 4 PM for dinner reservations. There’s live music each Wednesday evening in season. Be sure to take a look at owner Wilfred Creque’s displays of island artifacts, including shards of Arawak pottery and 17th-century coins, cannonballs, and bottles. These are housed in a little one-room museum adjacent to the dining room. | Pomato Point VG1140 | 284/495–8038 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Sept.

WHERE TO STAY

Anegada Reef Hotel.

$$$–$$$$ | HOTEL | Head here if you want to relax in the shade on a beach that stretches forever, enjoy the company of like-minded folks, and do nothing more strenuous than head out once or twice to fish or scuba dive in the nearby waters. Pros: everything you need is nearby; serene setting; gorgeous views. Cons: basic rooms; often a party atmosphere. | Setting Point VG1140 | 284/495–8002 | www.anegadareef.com | 20 rooms | In-room: no phone, no TV. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, beachfront | MC, V | EP.

Neptune’s Treasure.

$ | INN | Basic waterfront rooms with simple but squeaky-clean furnishings and air-conditioning that’s essential during the summer and