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Caribbean (Fodor's, 2011) - Fodor's Travel Publications [4]

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spinnakers as sailing enthusiasts gather for the internationally known BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival, whichbegins during the last week in March and continues until the first weekend in April. Tortola celebrates Carnival on and around August 1 to mark the anniversary of the end of slavery in 1834. A slew of activities culminating with a parade through the streets take place in Road Town. Hotels fill up fast, so make sure to reserve your room and rental car well in advance.

In August, you can also try your hand at sportfishing, as anglers compete to land the largest catch at the BVI Sportfishing Tournament.

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THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS BEACHES

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With a couple of exceptions, restful and relaxing best describe most beaches across the British Virgin Islands. If peace and quiet are your goals, avoid popular beaches such as Cane Garden Bay on Tortola and the Baths on Virgin Gorda on days when cruise ships are in port.

The best BVI beaches are on deserted islands reachable only by boats, so take a snorkeling or sailing trip at least once. Tortola’s north side has several perfect palm-fringed, white-sand beaches that curl around turquoise bays and coves, but none really achieves greatness. Nearly all are accessible by car (preferably a four-wheel-drive vehicle), albeit down bumpy roads that corkscrew precipitously. Some of these beaches are lined with bars and restaurants as well as water-sports equipment stalls; others have absolutely nothing.

Anybody going to Virgin Gorda must experience swimming or snorkeling among its unique boulder formations, which can be visited at several sites along Lee Road. The most popular is the Baths, but there are several other similar places nearby that are easily reached.

THE SAND

Soft, white talcum-powder strands of sand predominate across the British Virgin Islands, but beachgoers will find an occasional patch of yellowish sand here and there. If you have to draw a line in the sand, Virgin Gorda has the best selection of beaches, but you’ll find similar beaches out near the airport on Tortola.

TORTOLA

Apple Bay, including nearby Little Apple Bay and Capoon’s Bay, is your spot if you want to surf—although the white, sandy beach itself is narrow. If you’re swimming and the waves are up, take care not to get dashed on the rocks. Cane Garden Bay is a silky stretch of sand with exceptionally calm, crystalline waters—except when storms at sea turn the water murky. Snorkeling is good along the edges. Long Bay, Beef Island has superlative scenery: the beach stretches seemingly forever, and you can catch a glimpse of Little Camanoe and Great Camanoe islands. If you walk around the bend to the right, you can see little Marina Cay and Scrub Island. Long Bay is also a good place to search for seashells. Swim out to wherever you see a dark patch for some nice snorkeling. Long Bay West is a stunning, mile-long stretch of white sand; have your camera ready to snap the breathtaking approach. The entire beach is open to the public. Smuggler’s Cove, a beautiful, palm-fringed beach, is down a pothole-filled dirt road. You probably won’t be alone on weekends, though, when the beach fills with snorkelers and sunbathers. There’s a fine view of Jost Van Dyke from the shore.

VIRGIN GORDA

The Baths is a national park that features a stunning maze of huge granite boulders that extend into the sea. It’s usually crowded midday with day-trippers. The snorkeling is good, and you’re likely to see a wide variety of fish, but watch out for dinghies coming ashore from the numerous sailboats anchored offshore. Nail Bay, at the island’s north tip, will reward you with a trio of beaches within the Nail Bay Resort complex that are ideal for snorkeling. Mountain Trunk Bay is perfect for beginners, and Nail Bay and Long Bay beaches have coral caverns just offshore. Savannah Bay is a wonderfully private beach close to Spanish Town. It may not always be completely deserted, but you can find a spot to yourself

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