Caribbean (Fodor's, 2011) - Fodor's Travel Publications [8]
Smuggler’s Cove | Map
(Long Bay Rd. VG1130), a beautiful, palm-fringed beach, is down a pothole-filled dirt road. After bouncing your way down, you’ll feel as if you’ve found a hidden piece of the island. You probably won’t be alone on weekends, though, when the beach fills with snorkelers and sunbathers. There’s a fine view of Jost Van Dyke from the shore. The beach is popular with Long Bay Resort guests who want a change of scenery, but there are no amenities. Follow Long Bay Road past Long Bay Resort, keeping to the roads nearest the water until you reach the beach. It’s about a mile past the resort.
WHERE TO EAT
Local seafood is plentiful on Tortola, and although other fresh ingredients are scarce, the island’s chefs are a creative lot who apply their skills to whatever the boat delivers. Contemporary American dishes with Caribbean influences are very popular, but you can find French and Italian fare as well. The more expensive restaurants have dress codes: long pants and collared shirts for men and elegant but casual resort wear for women. Prices are often a bit higher than you’d expect to pay back home and the service can sometimes be a tad on the slow side, but enjoy the chance to linger over the view.
ROAD TOWN
Capriccio di Mare. | Map
$ | ITALIAN | The owners of the well-known Brandywine Bay restaurant also run this casual, authentic Italian outdoor café. Stop by for an espresso, a fresh pastry, a bowl of perfectly cooked penne, or a crispy tomato-and-mozzarella pizza. Drink specialties include a mango Bellini, an adaptation of the famous cocktail served at Harry’s Bar in Venice. | Waterfront Dr.,Road Town VG11110 | 284/494–5369 | Reservations not accepted | MC, V | Closed Sun.
The Dove. | Map
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Here’s a two-in-one restaurant that can meet your needs regardless of the meal you’re craving. When you want something more casual or just a few bites along with some drinks, head upstairs for something from the Dove’s tapas menu—the sushi plate, pad thai noodles, and duck nachos are especially tasty. For more formal dining, you can eat downstairs and try some of the Dove’s innovative cuisine—including five-spice duck breast served in a red-wine-and-ginger sauce, which comes with an apple-and-cabbage mixture and a sweet potato. | Waterfront Dr., Road Town VG11110 | 284/494–0313 | MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
Le Cabanon. | Map
$$$ | French | Birds and bougainvillea brighten the patio of this breezy French restaurant and bar, a popular gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. French onion soup and smoked salmon salad are good appetizer choices. From there, move on to the grilled tuna with wasabi sauce, sole in a brown butter sauce, or beef tenderloin with green peppercorn sauce. Save room for such tasty desserts as chocolate cake and crème brûlée, or opt for a platter of French cheeses. | Waterfront Dr.,Road Town VG11110 | 284/494–8660 | MC, V | Closed Sun.
Roti Palace. | Map
$ | CARIBBEAN | You might be tempted to pass this tiny spot on Road Town’s Main Street when you see the plastic tablecloths and fake flowers, but owner Jean Leonard’s reputation for dishing up fantastic roti is known far and wide. Flatbread is filled with curried potatoes, onions, and either chicken, beef, conch, goat, or vegetables. Ask for the bone out if you order the chicken, to save yourself the trouble of fishing them out of your mouth. | Main St., Road Town VG11110 | 284/494–4196 | No credit cards | Closed Sun. No dinner.
Spaghetti Junction. | Map
$$ | ITALIAN | Popular with the boating crowd, this longtime favorite serves up such West Indian dishes as stewed oxtail along with Italian favorites like penne smothered in a spicy tomato sauce, spinach-mushroom lasagna, and angel-hair