Carolinas, Georgia & South Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Alex Leviton [106]
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Cumberland Island, Georgia’s largest and southernmost barrier island, is the belle of the ball. Isolated, rugged, and hauntingly pristine, this 57-sq-mile island is brimming with wild marshes, unspoiled beaches and a population and infrastructure lost in time amid cultural ruins and sturdy oak trees dripping in Spanish moss.
From Brunswick, it’s an hour’s drive south on I-95 to Fernandina Beach, FL, where ferries operated by Greyfield Inn (www.greyfieldinn.com) – the island’s only accommodations – leave three times a day.
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Head across the street to Jekyll Island Club Wharf, where JP Morgan’s Corsair and Corsair II once anchored. Plant yourself on the deck at Rah Bar and order a Lowcountry boil, the coastal Jawga version of a seafood platter: crab legs, shrimp, crawdaddies, corn, pork sausage and red potatoes. If you don’t get too hyped on the excellent margaritas, sign up for a nighttime turtle walk at Georgia Sea Turtle Center, a rescue, rehabilitation and interactive research facility working to save Georgia’s sea turtles.
Get up at the crack of dawn and head out to Driftwood Beach, an apocalyptic beach on Jekyll’s northeast point that’s saturated with enormous washed-up oak trees. It’s magical at dawn. In fact, spend the morning lounging on any of Jekyll’s 9 miles of beach. St Andrews Beach is another fine choice – you can see the dolphins come close to shore to feed in the early morning. On your way back to I-95, your likely exit route, don’t miss the Georgia Pig, a petrified cedar cabin of smoked BBQ goodness near the intersection of US-17 and I-95 back in Brunswick. Definitely let some chopped pork slap you on your taste buds on your way out the door.
Kevin Raub
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TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
From Atlanta, head south on I-75 to Macon, where you’ll pick up I-16 east straight into Savannah. US-17 heads out of town south to Brunswick.
DO
Fort King George
An impressive reproduction of Georgia’s oldest fort, a British outpost dating back to 1721. 912-437-4770; www.gastateparks.com; 1600 Wayne St, Darien; adult/child $5/2.50; 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 2-5:30pm Sun;
Georgia Sea Turtle Center
This interactive sea turtle sanctuary and hospital is worth a visit. Don’t miss the nightly turtle walks. 912-635-4444; www.georgiaseaturtlecenter.org; 214 Stable Rd, Jekyll Island; 10am-6pm;
King & Prince Golf Course
The prettiest 18 holes (6465yd, par 72) on St Simons, some on scenic marsh islands. 912-634-0255; www.kingandprince.com; 100 Tabbystone, St Simons Island; 8am-5pm
Jekyll Island Museum
The museum preserves 34 historic structures and 53 archeological sites and offers self-guided walking and trolley tours through the Historic Landmark District. 912-635-4036; www.jekyllisland.com; 100 Stable Rd, Jekyll Island; tours adult $10-16, child $5-7; 9am-5pm;
Jekyll Island Information Center
Stop here for invaluable maps and information before crossing onto Jekyll Island. 912-635-3636; www.jekyllisland.com; 901 Jekyll Causeway, Jekyll Island; 9am-5pm;
Lady Jane Shrimp Boat
Go shrimpin’ in the St Simmons Sound in this unique shrimp trawler. 912-265-5711; www.credlesadventures.com; 1200 Glynn Ave, Brunswick; adult/child $40/25; 3:45pm Wed & Fri;
Maritime Center Museum
An interesting look into the maritime history of the Georgia Coast. 912-638-4666; www.stsimonslighthouse; St Simons Island; adult/child $6/3; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat;
Old Infirmary
Eclectic bookshop and boutique inside an 1890 cottage formerly owned by Joseph Pulitzer. 912-635-3076; www.jekyllbooks.com; 101 Old Plantation Rd, Jekyll Island; 9:30am-5pm;
Southeast Adventure
The best kayak outfitter in the area. The three-hour St Simon trip winds through salt marshes and maritime forest to Sea Island. 912-638-6732; www.southeastadventure.com; 313 Mallory St, St Simons Island; tours from $40; 9:30am-5pm;
St Simons Visitors Center
Eclectic bookshop and boutique inside an 1890 cottage formerly owned by Joseph Pulitzer.