Carolinas, Georgia & South Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Alex Leviton [111]
Kenneth Worthy, Savannah, GA
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Escape the tourist hordes for dinner by grabbing a cab out past the gorgeous mansions along Victory Rd to where the locals eat, New South Café. The menu here is decidedly more upscale than the atmosphere, with a focus on grown-up versions of classics: boneless Georgia peanut-crusted fried chicken, wild Georgia shrimp and Andouille grit cakes, or crab cakes with Asiago cheese dressing. For a change of scenery, lay your head at the recently renovated Marshall House, an upscale Savannah landmark.
You’ll have to work for your food the next morning. The line outside Mrs Wilkes begins as early as 8am and extends more than a snap bean’s throw down the charming street on which it sits. It’s first come, first serve at this Southern comfort-food institution. Once the lunch bell rings and you are seated family-style, the kitchen unloads on you: fried chicken, beef stew, meat loaf, cheese potatoes, collard greens, black-eyed peas, mac and cheese, rutabaga, candied yams, creamed corn…and biscuits. It’s like Thanksgiving, the Last Supper and a final death-row meal rolled into one massive feast, chased with sweet tea.
Another longtime Savannahian staple beckons for dinner, the antebellum-era Olde Pink House, located on Reynolds Sq. An elegant evening here should include the signature crispy scored flounder or the massive braised pork shank, but everything is memorable. Of course, if all of this is just too overwhelming, you can always do-it-yourself. Savannah’s squares are tailor-made for romantic picnics. Head to Parker’s Market – you’ll net all the wares you’ll need to lose yourself in historical gluttony.
Kevin Raub
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TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
From Atlanta, head south on I-75 to Macon, where you’ll pick up I-16 (eastbound) straight into Savannah.
DO
700 Drayton Kitchen Cooking School
Boil and baste your way around Lowcountry cuisine (or Italian and Latin) with chef Darin Sehnert. 912-238-5158; www.700kitchen.com; 700 Drayton St; classes from $90
Parker’s Market
An upscale convenience store perfect for stocking up on gourmet goodies for a picnic in one of Savannah’s postcard-perfect squares. 912-233-1000; 222 Drayton St; 24hr
EAT & DRINK
700 Drayton
Gulf Coast grouper with Georgia shrimp and fried green tomatoes highlight offerings here. 912-238-5158; www.700kitchen.com; 700 Drayton St; mains $24-34; 6:30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun
Elizabeth on 37th
The Southern culinary empire began by James Beard Foundation Award–winning chef Elizabeth Terry is carried on inside this romantic, stately mansion by her protégé, Kelly Yambor. 912-236-5547; 105 E 37th St; mains $29-37; 6-10pm
Lady & Sons
Paula Deen’s Southern buffet, rife with fried chicken and Middle America masses. 912-233-2600; 102 W Congress St; buffet $18, mains $19-28; 11am-3pm & 5-10pm
Mom and Nikki’s
This soul food cafeteria serving up smothered shrimp and cheese grits makes for an unforgettable breakfast. 912-233-7636; 714 MLK Jr Blvd; mains $5-8.50; 7:30am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri, 8am-2pm Sat
Mrs Wilkes
A Southern food institution since 1943. 912-232-5997; 107 W Jones St; mains $16; 11am-2pm Mon-Fri
New South Café
Travel out of the historic district for New Southern delights like Georgia peanut-crusted fried chicken and fried green tomato wraps. 912-233-7568; 2601 Skidaway Rd; mains $9-28; 11am-3pm & 5-10pm Tue-Sat
Olde Pink House
Classic Southern dining with a twist in an elegant 18th-century pink mansion on Reynolds Sq. 912-232-4286; 23 Abercorn St; mains $17-29; 5-10:30pm Sun & Mon, 11am-10:30pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat
SLEEP
Mansion on Forsyth Park
Southern touches offset abstract art at Savannah’s top address, home to 700 Drayton and the cooking school of the same name. 912-238-5158; www.mansiononforsythpark.com; 700 Drayton St; r $259-399;