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Part pawnshop, garage sale and retail store, except everything here once belonged to someone who lost their luggage. 256-259-1525; www.unclaimedbaggage.com; 509 Willow St, Scottsboro; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat;

US Space & Rocket Center

The world’s largest space museum houses the newly restored Saturn V rocket and numerous NASA attractions. 256-837-3400; www.spacecamp.com/museum; One Tranquility Base, Huntsville; adult/child $24.95/19.95; 9am-5pm;

Vulcan Park

The largest cast-iron statue in the world stands proudly over Birmingham in this beautiful city park. 205-933-1409; www.vulcanpark.org; 1701 Valley View Dr, Birmingham; tower & museum adult/child $6/4; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun;

World’s Largest Chair

This 31ft-high, 20,000lb steel office chair sitting in the parking lot of Miller’s Office Furniture is a Guinness record holder. 256-237-1641; 625 Noble St, Anniston

EAT & DRINK

All Steak

Order the sweet, gooey orange rolls at this restaurant on the 4th floor of a parking deck. 256-734-4322; cnr 4th St SW & 1st Ave SW, Cullman; mains $8.50-30; 7:30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 3pm Sun;

Blue Willow Bistro

An 1890 home brimming with antiques (all for sale) and scrumptious Southern delicacies like sweet tomato pie and fried chicken sandwiches. 256-259-3462; 303 E Willow St, Scottsboro; mains $6-15; 11am-2pm Tue-Sun, 6-8pm Fri & Sat

Docks

Good-time seafood and chop house on the edge of Lake Guntersville. Don’t overdrink and fall in. 256-574-3071; 417 Hembree Dr, Scottsboro; mains $14-19; 5pm-late Tue-Sat;

Garage Café

Eclectic crowds knock back myriad beer choices in a courtyard full of junk, antiques, ceramic statues and the kitchen sink. 205-322-1282; 2304 10th Ter St, Birmingham; sandwiches $5-6; 3pm-midnight Sun & Mon, 11am-2am Tue-Sat

Ketchup

Like eating inside a Valentine’s Day card – this modern American LA transplant does upscale comfort food. 256-327-8390; 350 The Bridge St, Huntsville; mains $12-32; 11am-3pm & 4-10pm Sun-Thu, 11am-3pm & 4pm-2am Fri & Sat

Rawls Restaurant

Wagering this the best small-town restaurant in Alabama would net you good odds. Save room for the cheesecake. 334-308-9387; www.rawlsbandb.com; 116 S Main St, Enterprise; mains $16-24; 11am-2pm Mon-Fri & 5-9pm Mon-Sat

SLEEP

Goose Pond Colony

Recreational resort with 36 holes of golf, shoreside cabins and a great restaurant (The Docks) on Lake Guntersville, ‘bama’s biggest. 256-259-2884; www.goosepond.org; 417 Ed Hembree Dr, Scottsboro; r $65-170;

Rawls Hotel

This 1903 hotel has beautifully appointed rooms, shockingly so for Enterprise (though oddly, it’s operated by military contractors). Don’t miss the restaurant. 334-406-2817; 116 S Main St, Enterprise; r $89-149

Redmont Hotel

Not quirky itself, but this is the last place Hank Williams slept in before he died. 334-265-1010; www.theredmont.com; 205-313-2166; 2101 5th Av N, Birmingham r $139;

Seven Springs Lodge

A hunting and horse enthusiast outside Tuscumbia has turned his grain silos into well-appointed accommodations. 256-370-7218; www.sevenspringslodge.net; 1292 Mt Mills Rd, Tuscumbia; r $50-120; Feb-Oct;

St Bernard Retreat Center

Sleep like a monk in this basic but spotless hotel at Ave Maria Grotto, on the grounds of St Bernard Abbey. 256-734-3946; www.stbernardretreat.com; 1600 St Bernard Dr, Cullman; r from $40

Westin

Huntsville is hurting for some interesting accommodations, but Alabama’s only four-star hotel is located at the upscale Bridge St development, right near the Space Museum. 256-420-2000; www.westin.com; 6800 Governor’s West NW, Huntsville; r $199-209

USEFUL WEBSITES

www.800alabama.com

www.roadsideamerica.com

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LINK YOUR TRIP www.lonelyplanet.com/trip-planner

TRIP

33 Georgia & Alabama Backroads

36 Talladega & Cheaha National Forests

37 The Shoals: Along the Tennessee River

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Return to beginning of chapter

TRIP 35

Thanks Hank: Hank Williams’ Alabama

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WHY GO From his boyhood home in Georgiana to his